@CSLB Why is the D-35 license enough to replace electrical equipment for pools/spas? Shouldn’t one need a c-10 license or c-53 at least? D-35 should be just for water maintenance. https://t.co/9a4LZu2Ymy
It’s science. If your heater looks like this, your pool man failed you. The copper deteriorated due to very harsh amounts of chlorine and/or low PH. Cooper does not rust with time. It’s damaged. So, how do you avoid this?
4. PH. It is better to be a little higher on PH if you’re struggling with your pool, but that will cause calcification to equipment. You have to check PH. ALSO: don’t just dump acid in your pool as if to use it as a cleaner. That’s not what you add acid!
3. Be sure there is a check valve between your salt cell and heater. If possible, make sure there is a plumber’s loop in between so the recently chlorinated water does not back into the heater. Don’t listen to the manufacturers who say it’s not needed. We see it all the time!
2. If your pool is accumulating algae at 1-3ppm, it’s very possible you are not running the pump long enough. I know! You’re trying to save money. So you add more chlorine to make up for less time running the pool. That’s when you damage equipment.
@CSLB - may I ask why a D-35 contractor can do so much electrical work for pools? Motors and electrical. I have found it to be dangerous that they are not also C-10 or at least C-53. They have no training for this.