@FomoReviews In summary, with LD high, dark scenes seem to frequently dim even further whereas bright scenes appear to boost. This might have been implemented to suppress blooming but it isn’t at all necessary with this many zones and is highly distracting, especially with large models.
@FomoReviews@Caleb_Denison not sure if you’ll have time, but wanted to see if you could check the @TCL_USA QM8 for a brightness fluctuation issue some of us are seeing in HDR10 and DV shows/films with intelligent options totally off… 1/-
@FomoReviews I and others on AVS have observed: The issue is more noticeable on 85” QM8s and may not be present on smaller sets. It also appears to be tied to the Local Contrast (dimming) setting. High leads to global luminance fluctuations, low seems much more stable but contrast is poor.
Most notably in Silo (ATV+) S1E5, The Witcher (Netflix) S1E1, and parts of House of the Dragon (S1E6). Have also noticed it in Star Wars Ep I: TPM in the scenes where Obi-Wan and Qui-Gon meet with Boss Nass at the beginning. 3/-
The issue seems to be present in low-light, but not totally black scenes and it’s almost as if the intelligent mode settings are enabled, but they definitely are not. The picture dims slightly and then brightens and will go back and forth for no apparent reason. 2/-
@USPSHelp could use some help figuring out why I’ve been getting this message the last few days while attempting to schedule a pickup. I regularly use this service for Etsy shipments that don’t fit in the awful community mailbox.
@AngryWarkocki Unless you’re looking for a very specific color that @PrintedSolid doesn’t yet offer, Jessie PLA destroys any real reason to buy cheap imported filament IMO.
@VanblucaCrypto@Prusa3D@BondtechAB@SliceEngineer@phaetus3D @BIQU_Hope In fact, I’d take a Tungsten Carbide nozzle over all if I had to pick just one. But again, the point of my OP was that mechanically this configuration is remarkably predictable and reliable, which is key to making parts for sale.
I really think that the ultimate production 3D printer is a @Prusa3D MK3S paired with a @BondtechAB extruder upgrade and any of the bimetal heatbreaks (@SliceEngineer Mosquito/Copperhead or @phaetus3D Dragon). Add a @BIQU_Hope SKR + TMC2209 if you like to tinker.
@VanblucaCrypto@Prusa3D@BondtechAB@SliceEngineer@phaetus3D @BIQU_Hope I think its applicability depends on the filament you plan to print. I get better results with a standard brass nozzle than I do with my Nozzle-X when printing PLA. As long as you use a quality nozzle, it doesn’t matter much from a reliability perspective.
I say this because I'm running a bunch of chassis kits trying to get ahead of a potential move and the machine just keeps cranking them out with spectacular quality.
That includes derivatives of the MK3S, like the Bear and @zaribocom. After adding the #DragonHotend and Bondtech extruder to my authentic MK3S, my results have just been amazing and the consistency blows away anything I've ever managed before.
@phaetus3D Also, I’m finding that for some of my prints, the copper is actually too effective at melting plastic. Is the ruby’s conductivity enough lower to meaningfully impact flow?
@phaetus3D This is a little after the fact, but can you describe how the internal geometry of your ruby nozzle differs from the Olosson? Particularly, does it have the internal step or is it a consistent taper?
@thisiskeithb@Prusa3D According to comments on Github, painted seams are also on the way either in 2.3 or 2.4. I’m pretty excited about that. Seam management is the big thing keeping me on Cura.