Glass Box Diaries

Welcome to my aquarium journey! Dive into the world of planted tanks, betta fish, guppies, shrimp, and other community nano fish.

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Fluval Flex 2.0 Aquarium Kit → https://t.co/Io0X0xPuf9
Fluval Black Basalt Canyon Aquascaping Set → https://t.co/q1EaOMdwXU
Fluval M50 Heater → https://t.co/d5Ok8GtCKg
(Affiliate Links – I earn a commission from qualifying purchases.)
Collaboration disclosure: Fluval provided the Flex 2.0 aquarium kit, aquascaping set and M Series heater free of charge.

📖 My Accompanying Article For This Video → https://t.co/gMejbdy01r

🛒 Aquarium Equipment I Use & Recommend → https://t.co/L5iGFOHGjU

🌿 Find The Right Plants For Your Aquarium → https://t.co/rMp8MyFuki

🐠 Browse All Of My Aquarium Care Guides → https://t.co/0GAIyWLBkI

Easy Planted Betta Fish Tank Setup (Fluval Flex 2.0)!

Follow my planted betta fish tank setup as I turn a 34-litre Fluval Flex 2.0 into a new home for Sovereign, my betta. This low-tech aquarium uses the included light and filtration, with live aquarium plants, dark rock and spider wood creating a sheltered layout with plenty of space to explore.

I take you through the build, from arranging the hardscape and adding substrate to cycling the aquarium, planting and introducing Sovereign. I also share the adjustments that helped him settle in, along with my early impressions of the Fluval Flex 2.0 as a planted betta tank.

For the hardscape, I used three rocks from the Fluval Black Basalt Canyon Aquascaping Set and a separate piece of spider wood. The layout slopes down from left to right, leaving a sheltered area behind the rocks while providing surfaces for attaching plants. I secured the pieces with aquarium-safe hardscape glue and compound.

The substrate has three layers: crushed lava rock at the bottom, fired clay in the middle and black sand on top. I chose a single sand colour because shrimp and snails can gradually mix contrasting sands together. Although this is the system I used, I explain why I generally find a single layer of Fluval Stratum easier to plant into.

The built-in rear filtration keeps the equipment out of sight, and I’m using the supplied foam, BIOMAX ceramic media and Poly-Carb cartridge. My main criticism was the strength of the current around the outlet. Sovereign initially avoided that area and seemed uncomfortable swimming near it.

Fitting the included spray bar, lowering the outlet and pointing the holes vertically upwards made a noticeable difference. This spreads and redirects the current rather than reducing the pump’s output, and Sovereign now moves around the planted layout much more comfortably.

For heating, I installed a Fluval M50 in the rear compartment, with the dial set to 27°C. The Flex 2.0 doesn’t include a heater as standard, so this is an additional item to consider when planning a heated betta aquarium.

Before planting or adding fish, I used a fishless dark start cycle with the filter running and the light switched off. This tank took around a month to process a 2 ppm ammonia dose back to undetectable ammonia and nitrite within 24 hours. I checked with water tests and continued monitoring for another week before stocking.

The planting combines fast-growing stems, broad leaves and smaller foreground plants. Limnophila sessiliflora, Nymphoides hydrophylla ‘Taiwan’ and red tiger lotus provide height, while Cryptocoryne, Echinodorus ‘Tropica’ and Pogostemon helferi fill the midground. Marsilea hirsuta is my choice for trying a low-tech carpet.

Anubias ‘Coffeefolia’, Bucephalandra ‘Kedagang’, Bolbitis and Trident fern add cover around the rocks and wood. I explain how I position mounted plants and keep the rhizomes of plants such as Anubias exposed.

I’m running the stock light at maximum white and red for 12 hours a day using a smart plug. After more than a month, the plants are showing positive growth. A little algae is appearing, so I’m watching it and may shorten the lighting period if it increases.

Sovereign is currently the only livestock. I’m considering Clithon snails and possibly shrimp once the plants fill out, although compatibility will depend on his behaviour.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping

TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - Intro
00:37 - Setting The Tank Up
02:54 - Substrate
04:27 - Hardscape
06:01 - Adding Water
06:50 - Heater And Filter
07:13 - Cycling
08:01 - Planting
13:44 - Stocking
14:35 - Fixing The Water Flow
15:51 - The Tank Today

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Free aquarium botanicals? Autumn is the perfect excuse to get outside and see what you can collect locally!

A few months ago, I published a guide on saving money in the aquarium hobby by collecting your own botanicals. The article on my website includes a table with links to maps showing recorded locations of different trees and plants, helping you find places to start looking in your area.

With autumn here, I headed over to a silver birch tree to collect some leaves and seed pods for testing.

There were a few leaves scattered across the grass, although the wind seemed to have blown most of them into a pile of mixed leaves. I picked through them by hand and collected the birch leaves I wanted, along with plenty of the seed pods.

No fancy equipment, no complicated process and no money spent. Just a plastic bag and some time outdoors!

It didn’t take long to gather enough material for my tests. I also noticed some branches that the council had cut down, so I collected a little bark after seeing other hobbyists experiment with it.

Back home, I separated everything and spread it out to dry. Considering how little effort went into collecting it all, I ended up with a large amount.

A week later, the leaves were dry and ready to go back into a bag for future use. The seed pods still need their seeds knocking out before I take the experiment any further.

The bark is something I’m leaving out. It still feels sticky, possibly from sap or another residue, and I’m not confident about using it in my aquariums.

This is the collecting and drying stage of an experiment, so I’m not presenting these birch botanicals as tried-and-tested additions to my tanks yet. I want to see how they perform before making recommendations.

If you’re interested in collecting your own aquarium botanicals, my guide on Glass Box Diaries has the map links to help you get started.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Aquarium Plant Growth From A Cheap Plant Light!

Here’s proof you don’t need an expensive aquarium light to grow healthy aquatic plants!

This planted tank runs under a Seaoura SR616, the most affordable aquarium light I’ve used that I would recommend for planted tanks. I run it at maximum intensity for six hours a day, and you can see how well the plants are doing.

The plant I get asked about most is Helanthium tenellum Green. A lot of people assume carpeting plants won’t work under budget aquarium lighting, but this one is slowly spreading across the foreground. It isn’t an instant carpet and patience is part of the process, but it is growing and sending out runners.

The Cryptocoryne beckettii Petchii is doing well too. This plant can hold onto a greener appearance under lower light, but mine has developed bronze hues that give a lovely colour contrast against the surrounding greenery.

Next is Pogostemon quadrifolius. It has lost some of its lower leaves, which I suspect is because the upper growth is shading the bottom of the stems. Cutting it back could help, but I’m currently keeping that growth as shelter for the baby Endler guppies in this tank. For me, giving the fry somewhere to hide matters more than keeping every stem looking perfect.

Bucephalandra Bukit Kelam, Anubias Petite and Echinodorus Tropica are also doing really well. These are less demanding plants, but that’s part of the point: you can build an attractive planted aquarium around plants that suit your equipment and budget.

I’m sharing what this light is doing in my own tank, including the slower growth and the less tidy bits. The carpet still has space to fill in, but watching it spread is part of the enjoyment.

You don’t have to buy the most expensive light to enjoy a planted tank. This setup shows what I’m growing with an affordable light and a simple six-hour lighting schedule.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #plantedtank #plantedaquarium

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

The Best Algae Eaters That Actually Work!

📖 My Accompanying Article For This Video → https://t.co/Df31uj84n9
📖 The Best Plants For Fighting Algae → https://t.co/KMWmaL7e54
📖 The Best Aquarium Lights → https://t.co/1dlSeenb4j

🛒 Aquarium Equipment I Use & Recommend → https://t.co/L5iGFOHGjU

🌿 Find The Right Plants For Your Aquarium → https://t.co/rMp8MyFuki

🐠 Browse All Of My Aquarium Care Guides → https://t.co/0GAIyWLBkI

Looking for the best algae eaters for your aquarium? In this video, I share my experience keeping seven algae-eating fish, shrimp and snails in my own planted tanks, including Amano shrimp, Clithon snails, Neocaridina shrimp, zebra nerite snails, Siamese algae eaters, Otocinclus and ramshorn snails.

I compare the algae I’ve watched them eat, the surfaces they clean best and the limitations I’ve noticed. From brown diatoms and green fuzz to green spot algae, green dust algae, hair algae, black beard algae and staghorn, different grazers have different strengths. These are observations from my aquariums, rather than a controlled test or a promise that every animal will behave the same way.

Amano shrimp have been among my most effective algae eaters for soft growth and green hair algae. After around four years of keeping them, I particularly value their ability to pick algae from substrate and hardscape. They’re less effective at clearing aquarium glass, and I explain why I’m cautious about claiming they reliably eat healthy black beard or staghorn algae. Mine also receive varied supplementary foods.

Clithon snails, also known as horned nerite snails, are some of my favourite algae eaters for suitable nano aquariums. Mine tackle brown diatoms, green spot algae and green dust algae, making them especially useful on the glass. I also discuss keeping them with betta fish, why compatibility depends on the individual betta, and the importance of established algae and biofilm rather than assuming they will eat algae wafers.

Neocaridina shrimp, including cherry shrimp, play an important role in my low-tech planted tanks. Their strength comes from building a breeding colony that grazes on brown diatoms and green fuzz algae. I explain why I often combine them with Amano shrimp and nerite snails, while considering whether the aquarium can support several animals competing for food.

Zebra nerite snails have been reliable glass grazers in my aquariums for almost five years. Mine eat brown diatoms, green spot algae and green dust algae, although they still leave patches for me to clean. I share why I generally prefer smaller Clithon snails for nano tanks and why natural grazing opportunities matter when choosing a home for a zebra nerite.

My Siamese algae eater would be my first choice for a suitably sized aquarium. After almost three years, mine still grazes on algae alongside daily target-feeding. I cover its usefulness against hair algae, black beard algae and staghorn, along with the limitations of those observations. At roughly 14 cm long in my 160-litre community tank, it also shows why planning for adult size and swimming space matters.

My experience with Otocinclus is more recent, but mine have impressed me by clearing green dust algae from the glass. I explain why a freshly cycled aquarium isn’t necessarily ready for them, and why an established food supply, suitable company and ongoing feeding matter. Ramshorn snails offer another useful option for brown diatoms and green fuzz, provided you’re happy with a colony that can multiply when food is plentiful.

Algae eaters treat the symptom rather than resolving the conditions behind recurring growth. I also discuss adjusting aquarium lighting, supporting healthy plant growth and keeping up with manual removal and maintenance. These animals are pets, and choosing the best algae eater means providing a suitable home and enough food long after the visible algae has reduced.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping

TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - Intro
01:07 - At A Glance
01:41 - Amano Shrimp
03:57 - Clithon Snails
06:42 - Neocaridina Shrimp (Cherry Shrimp)
08:28 - Nerite Snails
10:53 - Siamese Algae Eater
13:27 - Otocinclus
15:42 - Ramshorn Snails
17:07 - Algae Eaters

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

What are the best botanicals for aquariums? After more than six months of testing, alongside years of using botanicals in my own fish tanks, I’m comparing 12 popular options for blackwater aquariums, golden water, natural leaf litter and feeding shrimp.

From Indian almond leaves and alder cones to nettle leaves and casuarina pods, these botanicals behave very differently. Some produce a dark brown tint, others turn the water golden, and some are far more useful as supplemental shrimp food than aquarium decorations.

To compare their effects on water colour, I placed 5 grams of each dried botanical into 200 ml of cold tap water and left them at room temperature for seven days. I didn’t boil them before testing, as boiling can remove some of the compounds responsible for tinting the water. Afterwards, I added the botanicals to my aquariums to observe grazing activity, feeding behaviour and how quickly they broke down.

Alder cones were my standout choice for a dark blackwater appearance. They released a strong brown tint and lasted considerably longer than most leaves, with my original batch still present after six months. Indian almond leaves, also known as catappa leaves, were another good option for darker water, although they broke down more quickly in my tanks.

Oak leaves were one of the biggest surprises. I’ve used them for around three years, but testing them without pre-boiling revealed a much stronger dark tint than I was used to. My shrimp and snails regularly graze on their surfaces, and suitable oak leaves can be collected locally for free. Correct identification and avoiding areas exposed to pesticides or other pollutants are essential.

For golden-water aquariums, beech leaves were one of my favourite discoveries. They produced a rich golden tint and looked attractive when first submerged. Casuarina pods offered a more durable alternative, adding an amber colour while retaining their structure for months, although their colour release didn’t last as long as alder cones in my experience.

When it comes to natural shrimp food, nettle leaves were my favourite. My shrimp and snails eagerly consumed softened leaves, sometimes finishing them within hours. Mulberry leaves were another reliable option that I’ve used for years, usually disappearing within days. I use both to add variety alongside my shrimp’s usual food.

There’s an important difference between shrimp eating a leaf and grazing on the algae and biofilm growing on it. With tougher botanicals such as Indian almond leaves and jackfruit leaves, I mainly observed grazing rather than direct consumption. These observations help explain why my favourite botanical for feeding shrimp isn’t necessarily my favourite for long-lasting leaf litter.

Magnolia leaves were the slowest-decomposing leaves I tested, making them useful for a lasting layer of natural leaf litter. Banana leaves broke down much faster but attracted grazing shrimp and snails. I also compare guava leaves and Ceylon cacao leaves, including their golden water tint, feeding opportunities and the pale appearance that makes them less appealing in my own setups.

These are observations from my aquariums, and results can vary with preparation, water conditions, temperature and livestock. There isn’t one botanical that wins every category, so I prefer combining different types to suit the tank.

Whether you want dark water, a golden tint, extra grazing surfaces or supplemental shrimp food, this comparison will help you choose aquarium botanicals for the job.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

PRODUCTS USED IN THE BUILD
Aquarium → https://t.co/0jID7hhIKY
Light → https://t.co/2JNmQbJW1R
Substrate → https://t.co/G9ahDRnxd1
Filter → https://t.co/KhjvgZoCYv
Heater → https://t.co/Swumnz9qZM
(Affiliate Links – I earn a commission from qualifying purchases.)

📖 My Accompanying Article For This Video → https://t.co/dMadBUeVg3

🛒 Aquarium Equipment I Use & Recommend → https://t.co/L5iGFOHGjU

🌿 Find The Right Plants For Your Aquarium → https://t.co/rMp8MyFuki

🐠 Browse All Of My Aquarium Care Guides → https://t.co/0GAIyWLBkI

How to Build a Planted Endler Guppy Tank Without CO₂!

Building a planted Endler guppy tank without injected CO₂ is a great opportunity to experiment with aquarium plants, colourful fish and a simple aquascape. In this video, I take you through my 25-litre planted tank setup, from adding the substrate and hardscape to planting, stocking and checking its progress 96 days later.

This aquarium is also a chance to test the FZone SOLO light and try several plants I haven't grown before. I share what's working, what I've changed and the algae problems I'm still dealing with as the tank matures.

The build starts with an affordable window privacy film background, Seiryu Stone and Spider Wood. I use Moss Hardscape Compound and glue to join the hardscape, then add 4 kg of Fluval Stratum aquasoil to create roughly 5 cm of planting depth. It's a straightforward layout with space for background stems, plants attached to the wood and rocks, and a foreground carpet.

For filtration, I'm using a Nicrew nano hang-on-back filter with an intake sponge. I replace the disposable cartridge with reusable 30 PPI aquarium foam to keep running costs down. A compact Seaoura SR318 heater keeps the aquarium at 24°C.

Before adding plants or livestock, I use a fishless dark start cycle with the aquarium light switched off. This tank took just over four weeks to cycle, but I rely on ammonia and nitrite test results rather than a fixed number of days to decide when it's ready.

The FZone SOLO is considerably more powerful than the budget aquarium lights I normally use. Its adjustable colour channels give me plenty of control, but this setup has reminded me that more light isn't always better. After initially using a higher intensity, I've reduced the main lighting to 30% while I work through the hair algae.

Planting combines familiar low-tech aquarium plants with some new experiments. Anubias Petite, Anubias 'Coffeefolia', Bucephalandra 'Brownie Ghost' and Java Fern 'Narrow' are attached to the hardscape, keeping their rhizomes above the substrate. Limnophila sessiliflora and Rotala 'H'ra' provide background planting, while Cryptocoryne × willisii helps fill the midground.

I'm also trying Hygrophila polysperma 'White', Lysimachia parvifolia 'Red' and Hygrophila pinnatifida. Lilaeopsis brasiliensis is my carpeting plant, and it's already beginning to send out runners. Red Root Floaters complete the planting, with a filter blocker helping keep them away from the outflow.

There's no injected CO₂ or root tabs in this aquarium. Alongside the aquasoil, I add a small amount of TNC Complete fertiliser with replacement water during water changes.

The livestock includes Bloody Mary Neocaridina shrimp, Amano shrimp and Japan Blue Endler guppies. Because my tap water is naturally soft, I also use a shrimp remineraliser and monitor the water parameters. The Endlers have already produced fry, so having a friend and a local fish shop willing to take the offspring is an important part of managing this small setup.

At 96 days old, the tank still has some hair algae, but its growth appears to have slowed since I reduced the lighting. Several plants are doing better than I expected, and I'm looking forward to seeing how the carpet and colourful stems develop over the coming months.

If you enjoy low-tech planted tanks, nano aquascaping and honest updates about what happens after the initial setup, subscribe to Glass Box Diaries. Let me know which plants you'd choose for a planted Endler guppy tank!

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #plantedtank #plantedaquarium #endlerguppy

TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - Intro
00:21 - Adding A Background
00:50 - Prepping Hardscape
02:47 - Substrate
03:26 - Filtration
05:11 - Cycling
06:15 - Lighting
07:31 - Planting
12:59 - Adding Shrimp
14:05 - Hair Algae Starts
16:09 - Adding Fish
16:56 - Algae Gets Worse
17:27 - The Tank Today

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Female Betta Fish Are More Aggressive Than People Realize!

Are female betta fish less aggressive than males? That hasn't been my experience, especially when it comes to keeping bettas with shrimp and snails.

Male bettas have a reputation for being aggressive, but some of my females have been much more determined to hunt their tank mates. That doesn't mean every female is aggressive or every male is peaceful. These are the differences I've noticed in my own aquariums.

Skittles, my first betta, was female. She would try to hunt all the shrimp in her tank, and I moved them into a different setup.

Khuli, a male betta, was the complete opposite. He would sit watching the shrimp for hours, as if they were his own pets!

Stitch, another male, was more interested in fighting his reflection than bothering anything else. He usually left the shrimp alone, although baby shrimp swimming directly in front of him were another story.

Marmalade was female and a total sweetheart. She lived with shrimp and snails and generally left them alone, although I do think she was eating some of the baby snails.

Sovereign is male, and his main priority seems to be staring at me until I give him more treats. What's happening elsewhere in his tank often seems far less interesting than the possibility of food.

Then there's Neon. She tried to eat all the snails in her first tank, so I don't dare try her with shrimp.

Across the bettas I've kept, my males have generally seemed more relaxed, while several females have shown a stronger prey drive. Hunting shrimp isn't quite the same thing as fighting another betta, but that distinction won't help the shrimp being chased!

If you're choosing a betta for an aquarium with shrimp or snails, don't assume a female will automatically be the safer option. My experience has taught me to judge each fish individually and have another setup available if the combination doesn't work.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #betta #bettafish #tropicalfish

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

📖 My Best Aquarium Lights Article → https://t.co/1dlSeenb4j

🛒 Aquarium Equipment I Use & Recommend → https://t.co/L5iGFOHGjU

🌿 Find The Right Plants For Your Aquarium → https://t.co/rMp8MyFuki

🐠 Browse All Of My Aquarium Care Guides → https://t.co/0GAIyWLBkI

If I could start my fish room again, these are the 10 fishkeeping mistakes I would avoid. From choosing aquarium sizes and lighting to planning maintenance access and buying healthier fish, I share what I would change to build a better fish room for my low-tech planted aquariums.

Keeping multiple fish tanks has helped me work out which equipment suits the way I keep fish. Some purchases have worked well, while others have cost more than necessary or limited what I can do. If you are planning a fish room or looking for budget aquarium ideas, these lessons might help.

First, I would think more carefully about tank size. My 25 litre aquariums are useful for shrimp and snails, but they restrict my choice of fish and plants. I still enjoy nano tanks, so I am moving towards slightly larger aquariums that give me more flexibility without taking up too much space.

Aquarium lighting is another area where I would buy to match the setup. Powerful lights can be excellent for high-tech planted tanks, but my aquariums do not use injected CO2. For my approach, affordable lights that suit the plants and tank dimensions often make more sense than paying for output I do not need.

I would also research aquarium heaters more carefully. I currently use Fluval T Series heaters in my tanks over 45 litres and the Seaoura SR318 in smaller setups. For a future fish room, I would like to explore insulating and heating the room itself rather than relying on a separate heater in every aquarium.

Standardising more of my aquariums, lights, heaters and filters would make managing the room easier. Compatible spare equipment would simplify dealing with failures, and familiar setups would make it easier for someone else to look after the tanks while I am away.

Using aquarium lids where possible is another change I would make. My Fluval Flex tanks have needed very little topping up, and I am monitoring their electricity use with smart plugs. With these betta tanks running at around 27°C, I am interested in how their running costs develop as the weather gets colder.

The physical layout matters too. I would plan aquarium racks, suitable bases and maintenance access from the beginning, with better cable management and labelled plugs. Being able to reach filters, work around each tank and identify equipment quickly would make routine fish room maintenance much simpler.

I would also arrange the tanks so I could enjoy viewing them together. At the moment, aquariums in opposite corners make that difficult. A better layout would help me relax and watch the fish while also making filming for Glass Box Diaries more practical.

Choosing where I buy fish would get more attention, particularly with bettas and guppies. Finding healthy fish has sometimes been frustrating. My Endler guppy hybrids have been hardier than my regular guppies in my experience, and I am interested in exploring wild-type bettas for future setups.

Canister filters are another purchase I would reconsider for my current tanks. They have their place, but my Seachem Tidal hang-on-back filters, Fluval U series internal filters and smaller Nicrew Slim filters already cover most of my needs. That money could have helped fund another aquarium.

Finally, every tank would have a clear purpose. Whether I am testing inert or fired clay substrates, aquarium lights, different plants or fish poop fertilisation, I want each setup to teach me something useful. My aim is a fish room that is easier to maintain, enjoyable to watch and full of practical ideas for low-tech planted tank keeping.

What would you change if you could start your fish room again?

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping

TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - Intro
00:12 - Mistake 1
01:21 - Mistake 2
02:53 - Mistake 3
04:18 - Mistake 4
05:38 - Mistake 5
07:16 - Mistake 6
08:25 - Mistake 7
08:54 - Mistake 8
09:47 - Mistake 9
10:33 - Mistake 10

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

The Truth About Bottled Beneficial Bacteria For Aquariums!

Before you buy bottled beneficial bacteria for your aquarium, check whether the product suits your water! 🐟

Bacteria in a bottle can be an easy extra sale when a beginner buys their first fish tank. But being offered a product doesn't automatically mean you need it, or that it will perform as expected in your setup.

One thing I respect about Fritz Aquatics is that they publish guidance explaining the conditions their nitrifying bacteria need. That information helps fishkeepers make a more informed decision before spending money.

For FritzZyme 7, their parameters include a temperature of 25–30°C, a pH of 7.3–8.0 and a minimum alkalinity of 4.5 dKH, or approximately 80 ppm.

Temperature and pH affect how quickly these bacteria process waste. A cooler aquarium can mean slower activity, so the results someone gets in a warm tank may differ from what you see in an unheated aquarium.

KH deserves attention too. Alkalinity is consumed during nitrification and helps buffer your water against changes in pH. Fritz warn that insufficient KH can limit the process and stall nitrite conversion.

My tap water falls below their stated minimum. For me, that's a reason to question whether this product is suitable for my setup before buying it. It isn't proof that every bottled bacteria product is useless in softer water, or that all beneficial bacteria die below 4.5 dKH.

I'm not criticising Fritz for publishing this information. I wish guidance like this was easier to find when beginners are choosing aquarium products.

Before buying an aquarium cycling product, check your temperature, pH and KH, read the instructions for that formula, and ask what problem it is supposed to solve.

Keep testing ammonia and nitrite during cycling. Adding a bottle doesn't, by itself, confirm that your aquarium is ready for fish.

Understanding your water is one of the best ways to avoid unnecessary purchases and build a healthy fish tank.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #tropicalfish

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

It’s finally time to plant my other Fluval Flex 2.0 for one of my bettas! This planted betta tank mixes familiar favourites with a few plants I’m curious to test under the stock aquarium light.

Limnophila sessiliflora went into the back right to fill the corner and create a hiding spot. Next came Cryptocoryne nurii, which should look beautiful if its tiger-striped leaves colour up.

Three Echinodorus ‘Tropica’ plants fill the midground, followed by Cryptocoryne walkeri. I’m hoping its darker leaves develop and help blend the foreground into the background.

Blyxa japonica went into the back left. This is one of the plants I’m interested in watching under the standard Fluval Flex 2.0 lighting. I also planted two pots of Helanthium tenellum ‘Green’ across the foreground to see how well it fills in.

For the hardscape, I used aquarium-safe glue on the roots of Anubias ‘Caladiifolia’ and attached it to the right-hand side. Its broad leaves should provide cover as it grows, giving the betta another sheltered area to explore.

I attached a Windelov Java fern to a ceramic plant ring so I can move it easily. For now, it sits behind the hardscape, although this plant has been problematic in my water before. Time will tell whether this attempt goes any better!

Finally, Bucephalandra sordidula ‘Blue’ went onto the left-hand side of the hardscape to fill that space and add another leaf shape to the layout.

The footage shows the aquarium two days after planting, with the betta now exploring its new home. This is only the starting point: most of these plants need a few months before I can judge how the layout is developing.

I’m using the stock light at maximum white and red intensity, with a smart plug providing a 12-hour photoperiod. That’s the setup I’m testing here, and I’m curious to see which plants settle in and which struggle.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #betta #bettafish #bettatank #plantedtank #plantedaquarium

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Time to plant one of my Fluval Flex 2 tanks for a betta! I'm using the stock light and trying a mix of aquarium plants to see what settles in and fills out.

First in is a red tiger lotus from my betta's old tank, planted in the back right. Beside the hardscape, Nymphoides hydrophylla 'Taiwan' should offer more hiding spots as it grows.

Cryptocoryne beckettii 'Petchii' fills the right midground, with Cryptocoryne x willisii in front for a green contrast to any bronze tones. I'm also trying Pogostemon helferi here. I love its crinkled leaves, although it might stay a little shorter than I want.

A single Echinodorus 'Tropica' goes on the left, while Limnophila sessiliflora fills the back left behind the hardscape. The aim is to create a sheltered spot for the betta and add fast-growing greenery to take up nutrients.

Two pots of Marsilea hirsuta go into the foreground. I'm curious to see whether it will form a carpet under the stock Fluval Flex light.

For the hardscape, I'm attaching Schismatoglottis and Bucephalandra 'Kedagang' with small amounts of aquarium-safe glue on their roots.

I've also mounted Microsorum pteropus 'Trident' on half a ceramic plant ring. Java fern can be hit and miss in my water, so this makes it easier to lift out for trimming or remove if it struggles.

Anubias 'Coffeefolia' sits to the right. It looks a little out of place now, but I've positioned its rhizome so future growth should extend towards the middle of the hardscape.

The other half of the ceramic ring weighs down Bolbitis heudelotii, resting on a rock behind the hardscape.

The final view is two days after planting, with the betta moved in. The stock light is on maximum white and red for 12 hours a day, controlled by a smart plug. That's my starting point for this tank, and I'll adjust it depending on plant growth and algae.

Now to give it time to settle!

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #betta #bettafish #bettatank #plantedtank #plantedaquarium #tropicalfish

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

📖 My Accompanying Article For This Video → https://t.co/9XYVHs1P6Z

🛒 Aquarium Equipment I Use & Recommend → https://t.co/L5iGFOHGjU

🌿 Find The Right Plants For Your Aquarium → https://t.co/rMp8MyFuki

🐠 Browse All Of My Aquarium Care Guides → https://t.co/0GAIyWLBkI

Setting up a planted aquarium on a budget doesn’t mean you need to compromise on healthy plants or a tank you enjoy keeping. In this video, I share where I’d save money on a low-tech planted tank, based on my own aquariums, and explain when spending a little more is worthwhile. I cover affordable plants, lighting, substrate, filtration and heating.

Choosing easy aquarium plants that you can propagate is a great place to start. I’ve grown Rotala rotundifolia across multiple tanks from a single pot by trimming and replanting the stems. Floating plants such as Salvinia minima can multiply on the surface, while carpeting plants spread across the foreground over time. Some pots of Cryptocoryne and Echinodorus also contain several individual plants that can be separated before planting. The main trade-off is patience, along with trimming or thinning faster-growing species once they establish.

You don’t need expensive aquasoil to grow a planted tank. I’ve had good results with inert sand, including growing crypts and sword plants without root tabs. Sand doesn’t supply meaningful nutrients itself, though, so those nutrients need to come from elsewhere. In many of my tanks, normal feeding, livestock waste and decomposition support plant growth. Aquasoil can still be useful if you want nutrients within the substrate or plan to keep more demanding plants.

A CO2 injection system is another cost you can avoid by choosing suitable low-tech aquarium plants. I’ve never used injected CO2 in my aquariums. Livestock respiration, microorganisms breaking down organic matter and gas exchange with the surrounding air all contribute to the carbon available in a tank. Growth may be slower without injection, and some demanding plants will be harder to grow, but plenty of easy species do well without the extra equipment or refills.

Affordable aquarium lighting can also go a long way. I’ve grown easy plants, low-tech-friendly red plants and carpets under inexpensive lights in tanks around 25–30 cm deep. Stronger lighting can help plants such as Helanthium tenellum Green, Marsilea hirsuta and dwarf sagittaria develop faster, thicker carpets, but it can also take more adjustment to manage algae. Match the light to your plants and tank depth rather than assuming a premium unit is essential.

Liquid fertiliser and root tabs aren’t automatic purchases for every planted aquarium. I explain how I use the fish poop fertilisation method and why I still add liquid fertiliser to some low-bioload setups, including shrimp and betta tanks. Plants always need nutrients, and fish waste won’t necessarily provide enough of everything. If normal feeding isn’t meeting their needs, suitable supplementation makes more sense than overfeeding or adding extra fish.

For filtration, I cover affordable sponge filters, the convenience of hang-on-back filters and why reusable 30 PPI foam is my preferred budget filter media. Remember to include the air pump and accessories when comparing sponge filter costs. Finer foam or filter floss can help catch smaller particles if clearer water is a priority.

Finally, an unheated planted aquarium can save on equipment and electricity if your plants and livestock suit your actual water temperatures throughout the year. If they need warmer conditions, a reliable heater belongs in the budget. I also cover Fluval T-Series heaters and checking temperatures with a separate thermometer.

Choose plants, livestock and equipment that work together, give the tank time to develop, and upgrade where it solves a real problem.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping

TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - Intro
00:20 - Aquarium Plants
04:19 - Substrate
05:43 - CO2
08:21 - Lighting
10:31 - Fertilization
12:34 - Filters
14:36 - Filter Media
15:31 - Heating

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Should Beginners Start With Planted Tanks?

Should beginners start with a planted aquarium? I think they can, even if it's their first ever fish or shrimp tank!

There is more to learn than with a tank without live plants, but a low-tech planted aquarium can be an accessible starting point. Choosing suitable plants and keeping the setup manageable makes a big difference.

There are plenty of easy aquarium plants to choose from. Anubias is a well-established favourite, but you don't have to limit yourself to familiar options.

If you're unsure where to start, my free Plant Index at https://t.co/OJcQaWlu7F can help. Select Plant Index in the menu, set the filters to suit your setup, and browse the matching plants. The ratings reflect my own experience, and you can click through to care guides based on keeping these plants myself.

Affordable aquarium lighting has improved too. I've grown a wide range of plants with budget lights such as the Seaoura SR616, so you don't automatically need an expensive light to get started.

Substrate doesn't have to be complicated either. Aquasoil and fired clay are options, but inert sand or gravel can also work. I've had success with plants in these substrates, including some commonly described as heavy root feeders. The important thing is that the plants still have access to the nutrients they need.

That brings me to my fish poop fertilisation approach. In many of my low-tech tanks, feeding the livestock provides enough nutrients to support plant growth without routine liquid fertiliser or root tabs. That won't suit every setup, so watch how your plants grow and adjust if needed.

You don't need to buy every planted tank accessory on day one. Start with suitable plants, an appropriate light and a realistic maintenance routine, then learn as the aquarium develops.

Yes, there's some extra research involved, but I think any beginner can start with a planted tank.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #plantedtank #plantedaquarium

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Horizon Aquatics Aquarium Plant Order Unboxing!

Here's my latest aquarium plant unboxing from Horizon Aquatics, with a total spend of £52.92. There's a mix of familiar favourites and a couple of plants I'm looking forward to trying.

First out is Blyxa japonica, which arrived looking healthy despite a cold night during shipping. I was concerned about the temperature, so it was good to see it looking fresh.

Next are two pots of Echinodorus 'Tropica', a compact sword plant. Both pots look healthy, and I'm looking forward to seeing how they settle in once planted.

One thing I appreciate about this order is the packaging. The plants were individually bagged and wrapped in damp blue roll to help stop them drying out during delivery. It's a nice touch that I don't see from every supplier. There's also the packet of Haribo!

Bucephalandra sordidula 'Blue' is new to me, so it'll be interesting to see how it performs under the low-powered light in this tank. Trying a different buce alongside varieties I already know should make for a useful comparison.

Microsorum pteropus 'Windelov' arrived looking lush, with those distinctive feathery leaf tips that give it a different look from standard Java fern.

The Microsorum pteropus 'Trident' does have some browning at the tips of its leaves. Most of my plants from Horizon arrive in great condition, but I wanted to show this too. I'm still expecting it to settle in fine.

There's also Cryptocoryne x willisii. The growth you can see here was grown above water, so it looks different from the shorter growth I usually get in my low-tech aquariums. It's been a solid plant for me.

Finally there's Bucephalandra 'Kedagang', my go-to buce. It does well in my water, and I love its colouration.

Overall I'm really happy with the order. The planting video for their tank will be online soon, so you'll be able to see where everything ends up and follow how it settles in.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #plantedtank #plantedaquarium #aquariumplants #aquaticplants #horizonaquatics #unboxing

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Here’s an unboxing of the Fluval Black Canyon Aquascaper Kit Megabox, showing the rocks and substrate included for building a planted aquarium layout.

This is the larger Megabox, rated for tanks measuring 60–75 cm, or 24–30 inches, long.

First out are the grey detailing stones, which help blend the substrate into the larger rocks and create a more gradual transition through the foreground.

There’s also white contrasting sand for anyone who wants a pale foreground, an aquascape pathway, or a lighter area against the darker hardscape.

I’m using the black sand capping layer instead, as I prefer darker aquarium setups.

Underneath that goes the fired clay nutrient layer, positioned above the base substrate and below the sand cap.

You also get two bags of lava rock base substrate, which I’ll use to build elevation and support raised sections of the layout.

The hardscape includes several larger rocks for the main focal point, medium supporting stones, and smaller pieces for the foreground.

Combined with the detailing stones, there’s a useful range of sizes to work with when arranging the aquascape.

I’ve shown the larger and smaller stones separately in the video so you can get a better idea of how much rock comes in the box.

I also weighed the contents and the total was close to the advertised weight.

My main observation so far is the colour of the rocks.

To my eye, they look closer to grey Seiryu or Ying stone than the much darker Black Venom appearance I expected from the packaging.

That’s a visual comparison rather than an identification of the stone, but it’s worth considering if you’re planning a dark aquascape.

After 24 days underwater, mine have kept their grey colour rather than turning black.

I’d judge the colour from the submerged rocks shown here when deciding whether this kit suits the look you want for your planted tank.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #aquascape #aquascaping #unboxing

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

📖 My Accompanying Article For This Video → https://t.co/KMWmaL7e54

🛒 Aquarium Equipment I Use & Recommend → https://t.co/L5iGFOHGjU

🌿 Find The Right Plants For Your Aquarium → https://t.co/rMp8MyFuki

🐠 Browse All Of My Aquarium Care Guides → https://t.co/0GAIyWLBkI

Looking for the best aquarium plants for algae control? In this video, I share the floating plants, fast-growing stem plants, runner plants, and houseplants I use to help manage algae in my low-tech planted aquariums without injected CO₂.

These recommendations come from growing plants in my own tanks, including the benefits I’ve noticed, where each type works best, and the drawbacks to consider before adding them.

Plants can help with aquarium algae management by absorbing nutrients as they grow and, depending on their placement, shading the water below.

However, adding plants doesn’t guarantee an algae-free aquarium, and the aim isn’t to strip every nutrient out of the water because your submerged plants need those nutrients too.

Floating plants would usually be my first choice because they combine nutrient uptake with shade and are easy to thin out when they become too dense.

Duckweed, Amazon frogbit, water lettuce, Salvinia cucullata, Spirodela polyrhiza, and Azolla have all been useful options in my setups.

Red root floaters, Salvinia minima, and Ricciocarpos natans are alternatives, although they have generally grown more slowly in my tanks.

I explain why a calm, well-lit area helps floating plants establish, how filter outlets can cause problems by repeatedly dunking them, and why you should leave enough open surface for light to reach the plants below.

Fast-growing stem plants are another favourite, particularly Limnophila sessiliflora and Hygrophila polysperma.

Other options include Lindernia rotundifolia, Heteranthera zosterifolia, Rotala ‘Blood Red’, pearlweed, and Pogostemon quadrifolius.

The important thing is choosing plants that grow reliably in your conditions, as being a stem plant doesn’t automatically make something a strong choice for algae management.

Tall stems can provide shade as well as use nutrients, but their rapid growth means regular trimming may be needed to prevent overcrowding and excessive shading.

Removing unwanted cuttings and excess floating plants also exports the nutrients held in that growth instead of leaving the material to decay in the aquarium.

Runner plants such as Vallisneria, dwarf Sagittaria, and needle leaf Sagittaria offer another approach, spreading through the substrate and producing new plantlets.

Vallisneria would be my main recommendation from this group, provided you choose a variety whose eventual size suits your tank.

Dwarf Sagittaria can also spread quickly, although mine has tended to grow taller under weaker lighting and stay shorter under stronger lights.

These plants can need more work to contain because you may have to manage both their height and the runners spreading into neighbouring areas.

For houseplants grown with their roots in aquarium water, pothos is my preferred starting point.

I’ve found it hardy, adaptable, and useful for algae management, but its leaves must stay above the water, and it needs suitable light and time to establish.

I also cover the potential downside of nutrient competition, especially in lightly stocked tanks where submerged plants may already be struggling.

More plant growth isn’t always better if there aren’t enough nutrients to support everything.

My approach is to choose plants that suit the aquarium, manage their growth, and combine them with sensible lighting and feeding.

The goal is a healthy planted tank with manageable algae, rather than trying to remove every trace of it.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #plantedtank #plantedaquarium

TIMESTAMPS
00:00 - Intro
00:18 - At A Glance
02:14 - Floating Plants
04:53 - Stem Plants
08:09 - Stolon Plants
10:43 - Aquaponic Houseplants
13:03 - Wrapping It Up

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

87 days in, and this little planted tank is still finding its balance! 🌱

My 25 litre (6.6 US gallon) setup uses a powerful FZone SOLO light and Fluval Stratum aquasoil, but no injected CO₂, which is why I call it a mid-tech planted tank.

There are a few algae issues to work through, but overall, I’m happy with how it’s coming along.

The Japan Blue Endler guppies have settled in really well and already produced their first batch of babies, which will soon be going to a friend for his breeding project.

The Bloody Mary Neocaridina shrimp have also settled in nicely and spend plenty of time grazing on the soft green algae.

The Lilaeopsis brasiliensis has started sending out runners, so hopefully, the carpet will gradually fill in over the coming months.

I’m also trying a couple of plants I haven’t kept before, so it’ll be interesting to see how they develop without injected CO₂.

Here’s the full plant list:

🌿 Bucephalandra ‘Brownie Ghost’
🌿 Anubias ‘Coffeefolia’
🌿 Anubias ‘Petite’
🌿 Red Root Floaters
🌿 Cryptocoryne × willisii
🌿 Microsorum pteropus ‘Narrow Leaf’
🌿 Limnophila sessiliflora
🌿 Hygrophila polysperma ‘White’
🌿 Lysimachia parvifolia ‘Red’
🌿 Hygrophila pinnatifida
🌿 Rotala ‘H’ra’
🌿 Lilaeopsis brasiliensis

I’ve reduced the light to 30% intensity after spotting some black beard and staghorn algae, and I’ll be watching how the plants and algae respond.

The tank isn’t even three months old yet, and nutrients released by the aquasoil may still be contributing to the balancing issues.

Hopefully, by the six-month update, the plants will have filled out and the algae will be more manageable.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #tropicalfish #plantedtank #plantedaquarium

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

A Quick Update On My Planted Endler Guppy Aquarium Running An FZone SOLO Light With Fluval Stratum!

My 25 litre (6.6 US gallon) planted aquarium is now 87 days old, and although it’s still finding its balance, I’m happy with how it’s coming along.

I call this a mid-tech planted tank because it combines a powerful FZone SOLO aquarium light with Fluval Stratum aquasoil, but runs without an injected CO2 system.

The Japan Blue Endler guppies have settled in really well and already produced their first batch of fry, which will soon be going to a friend for his breeding project.

The Bloody Mary Neocaridina shrimp colony also seems comfortable, and they’ve been busy grazing on the soft green algae growing around the tank.

I haven’t spotted the Amano shrimp for a couple of days, but with this much plant cover, it isn’t unusual for them to disappear from view.

I’m trying a few plants I haven’t kept before in this setup, including Samolus parviflorus ‘Red’ and Hygrophila polysperma ‘White’, and both seem to be doing reasonably well so far.

The Lilaeopsis brasiliensis carpet has also started sending out runners, so I’m hoping it will gradually spread across the substrate over the coming months.

It’s still early days for the carpet, but seeing new growth is encouraging when you’re growing aquarium plants without injected CO2.

There is some black beard algae and staghorn algae appearing, so I’ve reduced the FZone SOLO light to 30% intensity while I monitor how the tank responds.

I’m hoping this helps, although turning down the light doesn’t guarantee that existing algae will disappear by itself.

At less than three months old, this aquarium is still developing, and nutrients released by the aquasoil may be contributing to the balancing challenges.

For now, I’m giving the plants time to establish, watching the livestock carefully, and keeping an eye on whether the algae continues spreading.

My aim is to have things more settled by month six, but I’ll let the tank’s progress guide any further changes.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #tropicalfish #plantedtank #plantedaquarium

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Checking Nutrient Levels In Low-Tech Planted Tanks!

Are your aquarium plants getting enough nutrients from fish waste? Here’s the simple check I use in my low-tech planted tanks when relying on the fish poop fertilisation method.

The idea is to feed the fish quality food and allow their waste to break down, releasing nutrients that aquatic plants can absorb through their leaves.

Unlike dosing a liquid fertiliser, this makes it difficult to know which nutrients are available or how much of each is entering the water.

The food’s nutrient profile, how much you feed, and how much your livestock retain all influence what eventually becomes available to your plants.

To get a rough idea of what’s happening, I use a standard aquarium test kit to check nitrate, with most of my tanks usually reading around 5–10 ppm.

This only tells me about nitrate, a source of nitrogen, rather than measuring all the nutrients my plants need.

It doesn’t prove there is enough potassium, iron, or anything else, but I find it a useful starting point alongside watching how the plants grow.

Around a third of my tanks have an undetectable nitrate reading, so I pay closer attention to the plants themselves.

Yellowing leaves, pinholes, and struggling growth are some of the things I look for, although these symptoms can have causes other than nutrient deficiencies.

In most cases, the plants in these tanks still look healthy despite the test kit showing no detectable nitrate.

One possible explanation is that nutrients are being taken up as they become available, leaving very little nitrate in the water for the test kit to detect.

An undetectable reading doesn’t automatically mean your plants are starving, and slower growth alone doesn’t necessarily mean you need to add fertiliser.

For me, the most useful picture comes from combining the nitrate reading with the condition of the plants and their growth over time.

Don’t overfeed your fish to chase a nitrate number: the aim is healthy livestock and healthy plants, not a particular test result.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #plantedtank #plantedaquarium

[Glass Box Diaries @GlassBoxDiaries]

Struggling with fish waste building up in your aquarium? The amount you feed is worth checking, but the food itself could also be part of the problem.

How well your fish digest their food can affect how much solid waste they produce, so portion size is only one part of the picture.

For some fish, higher levels of starch or fibre in their food can increase solid waste production, although this depends on the species and the overall formulation of the food.

That doesn’t mean every food containing plant ingredients is unsuitable, or that one food will be the best choice for every fish in your planted tank.

I’ve always been open about not gravel vacuuming my aquariums, but when people asked why they were getting excessive waste buildup, I hadn’t really considered their choice of fish food as one possible factor.

It’s something I should have included in those conversations alongside how much they were feeding.

In my low-tech planted tanks, I alternate between Fluval Bug Bites and Hikari Micro Pellets each day, and that routine works well without problematic waste accumulation.

That’s my experience with my tanks and feeding routine, rather than proof that switching to either food will solve a waste problem in another aquarium.

The Fluval Bug Bites Tropical Granules shown in this video list black soldier fly larvae, salmon, and fish protein concentrate first, followed by peas, potato, and wheat.

However, an ingredient list alone doesn’t tell us how much of a food a particular fish will digest, so I wouldn’t judge a product purely by the first few ingredients.

If waste is becoming a problem, take a closer look at what you’re feeding, how much you’re adding, and whether food is being left uneaten.

Don’t assume that changing brands means you can feed more, or that copying my routine means your tank won’t need gravel vacuuming.

Even a highly digestible fish food can contribute to waste problems if you feed too much.

#aquarium #fishtank #fishkeeping #tropicalfish