A Galápagos Cruise Challenges the Mind, Body, and Spirit — Here's Why I'm Glad I Took My 7-year-old Son
Snorkeling with penguins and dining under the stars? An intimate cruise in the Galápagos Islands brings you up close to nature, but doesn’t skimp on luxury.
The golden cownose rays eased silently through the lagoon, like fall leaves drifting down a stream. Every few seconds, a fin would break the surface, revealing the stark contrast of a white underbelly. The driver of our Zodiac cut the engine out of deference to the animals, and a silence quickly descended on the red mangroves, their thick roots sheltering countless other species just beneath.
Shouts from another inflatable raft broke the stillness. I was sitting with seven other passengers, all giddy to be exploring the waterways off Punta Moreno on Isabela Island — a seahorse-shaped landmass, the largest and one of the youngest in the volcanic chain that makes up the Galápagos. Our companion boat had caught up to us. My son, Bobby, and husband, Rob, who were in that group, were pointing at the triangular formation of rays. Look close!
Thick raindrops appeared, but neither the creatures nor the humans seemed bothered — it was just nature, running its course. I hope Bobby is paying attention, I said to myself, willing the thought across the water and into his impressionable yet wandering seven-year-old mind. Does he know how lucky he is? Do we know how lucky we are?
My family and I were on day five of our rigorous journey aboard the Grace, a 16-passenger yacht once gifted to Grace Kelly by Aristotle Onassis. I emphasize “rigorous” to banish the idea of this being a cocktails-with-your-feet-up kind of a vacation. Arguably more strenuous than most African safaris, a Galápagos cruise challenges the mind, body, and spirit. There were multiple snorkeling trips through the Pacific waves in heavy-duty wet suits as penguins darted by our flippers. Sweat-soaked hikes near volcanoes (yes, plural). Kayak excursions past flightless cormorants batting their devolved, stubby wings after a dip — they seemed prepared for the midday heat, while we suffered in useless hats.
“You’re going to need a vacation from your vacation,” joked our always-on cruise director, Scarlett Briones, part of the Grace’s 14-strong crew. Not long after our plane touched down on Baltra Island, in the center of the archipelago, we had spotted our first sea lion (highly thrilling at the time, but by the end of our trip they were NBD). He barked at us like an impatient toddler as we boated to the Grace. My not-so-shy son suddenly curled up by my side; the only sea lions we’d come this close to were at the Central Park Zoo.
Two families — one from Seattle, the other from the New York City suburbs — were with us on the weeklong journey. We quickly made friends, lounging comfortably together on the yacht in bare feet and bathing suits within 24 hours of meeting. That may have been easier because of the intimate nature of the ship. Recently renovated by Enrique Concha & Co., a Chilean design firm, the Grace’s guest cabins, lounge, and open-air bar had been decorated in warm earth tones. And there was a place for everything. Our 183-square-foot room miraculously held a pullout bed for Bobby and all the gear we brought: shoes, backpacks, more shoes, toiletries, more shoes. There was an alfresco hot tub for tired muscles, a top perch for sunbathing, and elegant meals, which we paired with Ecuadoran wines and enjoyed under the unfamiliar stars of the Southern Hemisphere.
Quasar Expeditions currently operates the Grace and one other vessel, the 32-passenger Evolution. (A new 18-guest yacht, the Conservation, will debut in December 2024.) The owners, the Diez family, are proud Ecuadorans who have had a presence in the islands since 1986. “There’s been a huge increase in multigenerational family travel,” Dolores Gangotena de Diez, the founder of Quasar, told me over dinner in the capital city of Quito just before our sailing. Years ago, she went on, the travelers were mostly intrepid retirees or marine biologists who didn’t mind taking timed showers. And of the few cruise ships that did operate in the region, most were not welcoming to children Bobby’s age.
In the past five years, Aqua Expeditions, Celebrity Cruises, and Silversea Cruises have debuted vessels that cater to those who expect to learn something while they’re being pampered (76 cruise ships are now allowed to visit the islands). In 2021, the protected waters around the archipelago were expanded by 23,000 square miles — making a total of 76,450 — to safeguard a critical marine migration route. And this past May, Ecuador completed the world’s largest “debt-for-nature” swap, a restructuring deal facilitated by Credit Suisse that led to the establishment of the $656 million Galápagos Marine Bond, which will fund future conservation.
What has remained the same: like every other cruise operator, Quasar follows strict itineraries, set by the national park service, so that landing areas are not overcrowded. Passengers must be back on their ships by 6:30 p.m., and they can leave nothing behind.
On our voyage, the ages spanned from five to 80, and the kids all became fast friends. Managing the entire group — expectations, abilities, learning styles — fell to our naturalist guides, Dolores Villacreses and Monica Reck, who have more than 35 years of experience between them. By law, all visitors must be accompanied by one certified guide for every 16 people. On the Grace, Quasar staffs one for every eight.
As we approached Genovesa Island, a horseshoe-shaped volcanic spit, I took one look at Prince Philip’s Steps — a natural rock staircase, some 82 feet high — and questioned whether we would survive the climb. We began to ascend, and Reck intuitively reached back to grasp our hands while Villacreses pushed forward with the more able passengers, winding past great frigate birds, the males’ red throat pouches puffed like balloons. Bobby couldn’t help approaching them for a closer look, as Reck delicately explained that the inflatable pouches were part of a mating ritual. (I gladly let her handle that one.) Before long, the humidity got to all of us, but both guides knew when to pause, allowing us to catch our collective breath in a massive lava-rock field. It was a humbling theater, as hundreds of storm petrels danced overhead with the Pacific as a backdrop.
There was a rhythm to every day, one that allowed us to push our personal boundaries. Wake before dawn. Breakfast. Excursion. Snack. Excursion. Lunch, sometimes with a show. More excursions. As we sailed from the northern shore of Isabela Island, lunching on grilled fish and vegetables, a super-pod of dolphins appeared on the horizon. With the captain steering us around them in hot pursuit, Bobby promptly dropped his half-eaten burger and moved to the bow with the other kids. They stood spellbound, elbow-to-elbow, watching hundreds of the mammals catapult out of the water in unison. Social creatures, watching other social creatures.
Later that afternoon, Bobby stayed on board while Rob and I opted to hike a trail past Darwin Lake near Tagus Cove, a quiet port on Isabela. Graffiti is etched on the cliffs from sailors and visitors long gone: indeed, Charles Darwin visited this exact spot on the Beagle in 1835.
Freed from childcare and soothed by the slight break in humidity thanks to a late afternoon shower, I listened for finches. I spent time with a fellow passenger, also a mother and New Yorker: small talk that somehow felt less small out there. I remembered when I read On the Origin of Species for high school biology, a class I really loved. “We want to share this place with the world,” Reck said to me over an afternoon coffee. “But the Galápagos has to be managed so that we make the least impact, to keep it as pristine as it is for as long as possible.”
The Mansions of Newport, Rhode Island
Gansett Cruises
New England oozes an irresistible storybook charm, and there’s no better place to experience it than in Newport, Rhode Island, with its yacht-lined harbor and Gilded Age mansions. You can take a guided trolley tour or simply admire these castles of wealth from the water on a harbor sightseeing cruise. Most tours include a stop at The Breakers, a mansion that housed the Vanderbilts and is among the most impressive of the city’s historic abodes. Alternatively, walk along the famous Cliff Walk and see the mansions from a unique, picturesque perspective.
Multnomah Falls: Bridal Veil, Oregon
Multnomah Falls
There’s an old Native American story that says Multnomah Falls was created for a young princess who wanted a secret place to bathe. This is certainly a place of beauty, with a roaring cascade of over 600 feet, making it one of the tallest waterfalls in the US. If you’re feeling particularly gutsy, walk up the trail to Benson Bridge, which spans the falls and gives you an unobstructed view up to the top—and a stomach-churning view down the roughly 70-foot drop. Tours like this show you around Multnomah Falls and the Columbia River Gorge as part of a half-day excursion from Portland.
This New Expedition Ship Feels More Like a Private Yacht — With Just 26 Suites
Lindblad Expeditions will sail the new, all-suite National Geographic Islander II on her inaugural journey this summer.
Dreaming of blue seas, white-sand beaches, and an extraordinary wildlife experience? The Galápagos Islands might be calling your name — and there's a new megayacht in town to help you explore them.
Lindblad Expeditions has just debuted its newest ship, the National Geographic Islander II, an all-suite, 48-passenger vessel that will sail the Ecuadorian archipelago year-round. The ship will replace the much-beloved but aging National Geographic Islander, when she launches on her maiden voyage on Aug. 18, 2022.
The ship is not a new build, but the former the Crystal Esprit, which Lindblad purchased for $13 million in November 2021 — before Crystal's parent company went bankrupt in January, shuttering the luxury cruise line.
Since then, the National Geographic Islander II has gotten a full head-to-toe makeover, from the redesign of 26 suites with marble bathrooms (including single and triple suites) to the addition of an expedition marina deck for activities like kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding and the development of a Science Hub for educational programs.
"One thing that people really love about traveling with us is that sense of community," Ana Esteves, Lindblad's vice president of hotel operations, said in a video announcing the ship. "This ship is designed to promote and foster that."
Those communal spaces include the outdoor Patio Café, the fine dining Yacht Club Restaurant, and the Cove observation lounge where the daily recaps and expedition lectures will take place.
Throughout the ship, design details will incorporate works by Ecuadorian artisans, while the menu will also feature local cuisine. And the entire crew — which will have a 1:1 guest-to-staff ratio for extra-attentive service — will be Ecuadorian.
"It's just a ship that really offers the perfect platform for us to go off and explore fully and get the most of folks' time in the Galápagos," Darrel Schoeling, Lindblad's director of expedition development, said in the video announcement.
National Geographic Islander II won't be the only ship Lindblad operates in the archipelago after the August launch — there's also the National Geographic Endeavor II, a 96-passenger vessel, which is permanently stationed in the Galápagos.
Per-person rates for a seven-night cruise aboard the new National Geographic Islander II start from $9,390, and you can book here.
Weekend Getaway in Santa Barbara: A Travel Guide
Santa Barbara, California, is highlighted as an ideal destination for a weekend getaway.
The city is renowned for its Mediterranean climate, scenic coastline, and Spanish colonial architecture.
Key attractions in Santa Barbara include Stearns Wharf, Santa Barbara Mission, and the Santa Barbara County Courthouse.
Visitors can explore the city's vibrant arts scene, including galleries, theaters, and public art installations.
Santa Barbara offers a variety of outdoor activities, such as beachcombing, surfing, hiking, and wine tasting in the nearby Santa Ynez Valley.
The city's dining scene features fresh seafood, farm-to-table cuisine, and world-class wineries, reflecting California's culinary diversity.
Accommodation options in Santa Barbara range from boutique hotels and beachfront resorts to cozy bed and breakfasts, catering to different preferences and budgets.
With its blend of natural beauty, cultural attractions, and leisure activities, Santa Barbara provides an idyllic setting for a memorable weekend escape.
Key Takeaway:Santa Barbara, California, emerges as an enticing weekend getaway destination, offering a mix of coastal charm, cultural experiences, outdoor adventures, and culinary delights, making it an ideal retreat for travelers seeking relaxation and exploration along the Central Coast of California.
This Cruise Line Just Announced New 3-week Trips to South America and Antarctica — for as Low as $163 a Day
Holland America's 2025–26 season has stops at Iguazu Falls, Machu Picchu, and Torres del Paine National Park.
There's been a lot of buzz about Antarctica in recent years, and if you're itching to make the trip, Holland America just opened bookings for its southern itineraries during the 2025–2026 season.
The cruise line's 1,964-passenger ship Oosterdam will sail between Santiago, Chile, and Fort Lauderdale or Buenos Aires on a variety of 14-, 17-, and 22-day itineraries between November 2025 and March 2026. Highlights include traversing the Panama Canal; overland trips to Iguazu Fall, Machu Picchu, and the Galápagos; and visits to the Falkland Islands, Torres del Paine National Park, and, of course, Antarctica.
All together, the itineraries provide access to 16 UNESCO World Heritage sites and UNESCO Biosphere Reserves.
"South America is a vibrant region that offers contrasting experiences within one cruise, sailing from the tropics to glaciers and busy cities to some of the most remote places in the world," Dan Rough, Holland America Line's vice president of revenue management, said in a statement provided to Travel + Leisure. "Our mid-sized ships make it possible to craft itineraries that feature an exciting collection of South American ports; and our menus, enrichment, and entertainment on board ensure guests come away feeling deeply connected to the places they visited."
If you plan on booking the Antarctica itinerary, take note: you won't actually get off the ship there, as there are too many passengers onboard land excursions. (Ships must have fewer than 500 passengers to qualify for off-ship activities.)
Instead, you'll do scenic sailing along the coastline for four days, weather permitting, likely seeing many icebergs and whales along the way. The trade-off does come at a cost — or rather a lack of one. Sail-by cruises to Antarctica are much less expensive than expedition cruises with landings.
I've Been to Almost Every Caribbean Carnival — Here Are My Favorite Celebrations
Here's how Carnival is celebrated across the Caribbean, from Trinidad to Barbados.
Every year around this time, I get a feeling of slow and steady anticipation — an excitement so tangible, I can close my eyes and instantly be transported to electric moments in Trinidad, Barbados, Grenada, Anguilla, and all the way over the pond to Notting Hill. Covered in paint, powder, sweat, and splashes of rum, I’ve gotten the closest I’ll ever get to completely letting go (no small feat for an adult) at Carnival celebrations in the Caribbean. I’ve looked into crowds in the thousands and seen that I’m not the only one experiencing this infinitude of joy, buoyed by music, dancing, and chants — and I’ve learned this sense of freedom is deliberate, having been passed on and preserved for nearly 200 years.
Carnival in the Caribbean is a longstanding tradition rooted in Black rebellion. In 18th-century Trinidad, enslaved Africans who were not allowed to participate in the pre-Lenten traditions of masquerade balls by European colonizers created their own celebrations of defiance. Centuries later, my hope is that the importance of these traditions is not lost in the rising commercialization of Carnival. Caribbean people have always proudly crafted costumes, attended lively music and color-filled costume competitions, and produced the sounds of soca — the soundtrack of Carnival derived from calypso that combines East Indian and African instrumentation.
I’ve been lucky enough to be immersed in these commanding traditions for more than a decade now. The spellbinding glow of the Jab Jab’s painted Black skin in Grenada; the symphony of feathers crisscrossing down Port of Spain in Trinidad on Carnival Tuesday; the crowning of the Pic-O-De-Crop Monarch in Barbados, a competition showcasing the island’s best calypso musicians. These diasporic connective fibers have brought me back to the Caribbean to "get on bad" (simply be free) and honor the legacy of a people whose ingenuity has sparked Carnival celebrations in countries as far as Japan and Sweden.
This year, I’ll be heading to one of my favorite Caribbean islands, Dominica, to experience Mas Domnik for the first time. One of the great things about Carnival is that you not only get to attend so many events, but you also get to admire the beauty of the location. Weaving through Dominica — aptly called Nature Island thanks to its teeming marine life, cloaked rain forests, bubbling hot springs, and black-sand beaches — will be no exception. I’ll play “mas” (a shortened expression for masquerade groups) with the popular band Amnesia, set my alarm clock early for J’ouvert celebrations with Lumi-Nation and Triple Kay International, a group that brings the sounds of Dominica’s bouyon music to the world. I’ll have dinner in the quaint courtyard of Lacou, where a passion fruit marlin ceviche and rum punch offer the perfect pairing. And I’ll check into the newly renovated Fort Young Hotel and celebrated cliffside retreat, Secret Bay, voted by Travel + Leisure readers as their favorite Caribbean hotel in the 2023 World's Best Awards.
There are a handful of other Carnivals I still have to experience, like St. Lucia and its up-tempo Dennery segment soca, as well as Martinique’s celebration, which features some of the strongest and longest-standing folklore and costumes in the Caribbean, including a giant puppet called Sa Majesté Vaval (the King of Carnival) that leads revelers down the road. And while I’m always ready to enjoy a new Carnival, here are a few that remain among the best I’ve attended to date.
@LocoHanford This article is great! I love using Airbnb for unique travel experiences.
Comment: Airbnb is a great way to find unique places to stay while traveling.
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Random comment: I'm always down for a delicious adventure, especially in Paris!
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Comment: I would love to visit Mirabell Palace and explore its magical gardens!