Some power tools use multiple blades and spacers to cut grooves of a specific width.
I wondered if I could apply the same idea to a hand saw, so I combined two saws with a wooden spacer.
It worked surprisingly well! The two blades make parallel cuts at the same time, and after removing the material between them with a chisel, I can create a slot that fits my pre-cut spline perfectly.
I think this is a useful technique for cutting spline joints without power tools.
By the way, the two saws face opposite directions because their handles would otherwise interfere with each other.
Over two years ago, I made a simple sharpening guide using a single caster and magnets, mainly for Japanese plane blades.
Some people who built it mentioned that the blade could slip during sharpening. I hadn’t experienced that myself, but I can understand how it might happen depending on the pressure and technique.
This time, I placed two casters side by side and added more magnets to improve the holding power.
The result is a much stronger grip. The blade can still be repositioned to adjust the sharpening angle, but I didn’t notice any slipping during normal sharpening.
I tested the improved guide with a Western-style plane blade, followed by a test cut. The results were good, and I also confirmed that it works with Japanese plane blades.
It’s simply a sharpening aid, but I like how easily it can be made with just a few materials.
Note: I used super glue in the video, but epoxy adhesive may be a better option for long-term durability.
I’ve made various types of phone stands over the years, but this time I tried something new—a folding stand that opens like a small easel using two wooden panels.
I wanted to keep the wood as thin as possible, but that meant the barrel hinges wouldn’t fit entirely within the thickness of the panels. So I decided to drill the hinge holes all the way through.
I used barrel hinges that stop opening at approximately 90 degrees.
The finished stand can hold a phone both vertically and horizontally, and even supports a larger tablet.
I used acacia laminated wood and finished it with beeswax.
At first glance, this joint looks complicated, and it’s hard to imagine how the pieces fit together. But by making the same cuts on both pieces, you can create this unusual joint.
This is a variation of the Double End Grain Joint, a type of joinery featured in George Nakashima’s book The Soul of a Tree. I’ve made this joint before for box corners, but this time I tried adapting it into a flat, L-shaped corner joint.
This joint requires more precision than it might seem, so I did most of the cutting with power tools and then used hand tools, including chisels, to fine-tune the fit.
The thin tips are also very fragile, so I left the pieces longer during assembly and trimmed off the excess after gluing to achieve a clean finish.
Sometimes when I repurpose furniture, I come across boards with biscuit joint slots left in them, making those sections difficult to reuse.
This time, I decided to find a new purpose for one of those scrap pieces.
If you often watch woodworking videos, you may have seen this before. It’s a towel holder that uses a marble to hold the towel in place.
The curved groove can be cut with a miter saw, making it relatively easy to build.
I also tried a slightly different approach to mounting it on the wall. I cut the head off a screw, threaded it into the back of the holder, and then screwed the other end into the wall.
Since screws alone won’t hold securely in drywall, I left enough length for the screw to reach the wooden stud behind it.
Depending on the mounting surface and conditions, heavy-duty double-sided tape might also be an option.
Thank you as always for watching my videos☺️
I’ve just uploaded a new video to YouTube!
This time, I’ve put together six woodworking ideas featuring unique wooden mechanisms that might inspire you to try them yourself.
Each project has a different mechanism, making for an interesting collection.
I hope you’ll enjoy watching it when you have some free time!
You’ve probably seen scenes in anime or movies where inserting a secret key reveals a hidden drawer. I’ve always been fascinated by mechanisms like that.
I’ve wanted to build furniture with a hidden drawer someday, so this time I decided to prototype just the mechanism.
I used a wooden spring latch that relies on the flexibility of a thin piece of wood. The drawer locks automatically when closed and unlocks when a pin is inserted into a small hole on the side. I also used repelling magnets at the back to make the drawer pop out slightly when released.
The prototype turned out quite well. My favorite part is the satisfying “click” when the wooden spring catches as the drawer closes.
It’s a simple mechanism, but I think it could be useful for all sorts of other projects too.
Even when I think I’ve marked everything accurately, the dowel holes somehow end up misaligned. If you’ve done much woodworking, you’ve probably experienced this too.
There are many ways to transfer dowel hole positions, but when I happened to notice a plastic sheet I had on hand, I wondered if it might work for this, so I gave it a try.
The plastic sheet I used is 0.3mm thick. It’s thin and transparent, making alignment easy to check, and it has a good amount of flexibility. Another advantage is that it can be reused instead of being thrown away after just one use.
I considered adding a positioning guide, but this time I kept things simple by aligning the sheet with a reference edge and securing it with masking tape.
As you can see in the video, the joint came together neatly with almost no misalignment.
While browsing social media, I came across a 3D-printed sanding block with a dial for adjusting sandpaper tension.
I was impressed that something like this could be made with a 3D printer, but I naturally wanted to try making a wooden version. So I adapted the idea into my own design.
I tried to keep the construction as simple as possible.
After building it, I realized that this dial mechanism could potentially be used in other projects as well.
Finally, I tested it by sanding some wood. The narrow shape makes it easier to see the area being sanded, and I found it particularly useful for detailed work.
I came up with another marking gauge design and decided to give it a try.
Many marking gauges that use a ruler have two separate pieces that clamp the ruler in place. This time, I made a simpler design using a threaded insert, a washer, and a single wing bolt.
I wasn’t sure if one bolt would provide enough holding force, but positioning it close to the ruler and adjusting the groove depth gave me a secure hold. The embedded magnets also help prevent the ruler from falling out and make fine adjustments smoother.
I also cut the opposite side at 45°, allowing the tool to mark 45° lines.
Although I left this step out of the video, I made the ruler groove using a method I’ve shown before: attaching sandpaper to a ruler and sliding it along a guide.