29 Nov: thanks to Ian and Anna for organising the Nepal trip. Grazyna & I are flying out to Costa Rica on 4 Jan to work at CR International Academy in Guanacaste province for a year. Hasta la vista!
29 Nov: up at 5:00am to catch flight Kathmandu to London via Doha. Departure brought forward by 2 hours-an extra 2 hours wait in Doha! 22 hours later I stepped into the house. London temp 3C vs 20+C in Kathmandu. Good to be home. I’ve lost 2kg weight. Last post for this trip.
28 Nov. Up at 6:00 to catch the 7:00 bus from Pokhara to Kathmandu. 200km took ~8:00 +stops. Most luxurious coach I’ve ever travelled in (3 seats in a row). Still very bumpy in places. Jams where it was difficult for a lorry or coach coming in the other direction to pass.
27 Nov: lazy day. Rowing on the lake to a cafe followed by a well deserved massage! Then a bit of shopping and finished off with a delicious chicken tikka masala - first bit of meat for ages. Tomorrow we are heading back to Kathmandu.
25 Nov: Walked up to the Sarangkot at 1592m (800m climb) for fantastic views of the Himalayas. Problem was that by the time we got there, most of the peaks were in cloud!
24 Nov: at one point Ian led Anna along a footpath that stayed low and Stu and I stayed on main track heading steeply upwards. We were in a bar having celebratory beers in Pokhara when they turned up 45 minutes later only having seen the sites from a distance. Smug!
24 Nov: guesthouse at top. Stopped for lemon ginger tea. Absolutely knackered! Slight descent then asphalt for short climb to Shiva. Then descent & small climb to peace pagoda. Long, fast, smooth asphalt descent to Pokhara. Brilliant!
At least 500m climb, ~15km. 10:30 to 4:15.
24 Nov:hired bikes to cycle to Shiva statue & Peace pagoda that are both on hilltops on the other side of the lake overlooking Phokara. Pleasant cycle along the lake then long, hard climb on gravelly, rocky track with hairpins.Towards the end I was pushing as much as cycling.
23 Nov: Road is WIP. We saw a strip of pristine asphalt but not yet commissioned! We’re in a nice hotel in Lakeside. This is a long strip of tourist shops, hotels, bars and cafes. Very touristy.
23 Nov: final look around Bandipur before catching taxi to Dumre and then “Tourist” coach for the 66km, 4 hour journey to Pokhara. More expensive & more luxurious. We’re getting soft! If the road was not so rutted it would actually be comfortable.
22 Nov: Bandipur. Explore extensive Siddha caves. Long descent along steep footpath. Monkeys scampering in the trees. Guide took us around. Health & Safety not high on the agenda. Hard slog back up & then to viewpoint for sunset. Must have climbed~550m. Not much of a rest day!
21 Nov: Bandipur has a beautiful, paved, pedestrianised section with a fantastic panorama of the Himalayas. Sit down toilets, hot en suite showers, coffee shops - great place to recover.
20 Nov: Transfer to luxurious (in comparison) bus for 2 hour drive Besisahar to Dumre.Then the smallest imaginable taxi for us 4+luggage up the steep road to Bandipur. If memory serves me well,Marek B & I walked the section Dumre to Dharapani 30 (?) years ago (Annapurna circuit)
20 Nov: Rutted, rock strewn road following the Marsyangdi river far below. Sheer drops with no safety barrier, passing other jeeps with inches to spare, 3 point turns on hairpin bends - stunning views!