Tiago

Harris tweed appreciator

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@Vitruvius___ @GD44vh KKKKKK eu li e pensei "certamente isso foi escrito por um membro atual do IRA"... dito e feito

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@Vitruvius___ @GunterFehlinger Sim, pelo menos a revolta no começo foi da população lealista, que é mais conservadora, então faz todo sentido mesmo.

https://t.co/YyA5dmyDIC

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@Sir630506 @f4b10rms IRA ia apoiar imigrante.

É tão difícil assim reconhecer que os Ulster loyalist são superiores ao nacionalistas irlandeses?

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@Vitruvius___

[Michael Warburton @For_Film_Fans]

RIDLEY SCOTT’s masterly directorial debut

THE DUELLISTS (1977)

#HarveyKeitel

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@Sir630506 @f4b10rms IRA ia apoiar imigrante.

É tão difícil assim reconhecer que os Ulster loyalist são superiores ao nacionalistas irlandeses?

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@davirissi @septic_schizo @LARGOESPN São Jorge se tornou padroeiro da🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿devido ao arquétipo marcial deste santo, levado pelos cavaleiros ingleses que participaram das Cruzadas. E os ingleses também tem um santo com o mesmo arquétipo de São Jorge e que era nativo da ilha, Santo Alban. Também soldado romano convertido.

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@davirissi @septic_schizo @LARGOESPN Cara, você é realmente estúpido ou se faz?

Deixe de ser ignorante e leia História Eclesiástica da Inglaterra, de São Beda. Mas respondendo: os padroeiros "originais" da Inglaterra são Santo Edmundo, Rei da East Anglia e Santo Eduardo, o Confessor.

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@RedPandaKoala @TeutonicKnighte Outro que defende algo parecido com o que você disse sobre os eventos da operação prato

[derek guy @dieworkwear]

There's a simple supply-and-demand answer to this question.

On the supply side, tailoring shops have mostly dried up, especially if you live outside of major cities such as London, Tokyo, and New York City. This doesn't mean that you can't get a good suit outside of these urban centers. But doing so requires a lot more effort and knowledge.

The photo of Cary Grant below was taken to promote the 1940 romantic comedy The Philadelphia Story. When this image was taken, the average man in North America could reasonably expect to be able to to buy a quality suit from a clothier or tailor within driving distance of his home.

Such clothiers and tailors would handle all the details. You would arrive, tell them what you need a suit for (work, wedding, summer, winter), and they would furnish the goods. If you didn't know the social rules or expectations around wearing such clothes, they would tell you. If they didn't know, trade publications such as Apparel Arts of consumer-facing titles such as Esquire would tell them. And then they would pass the information to you.

Today, you have to do all the work yourself. Supposing you know where to buy a good suit (meaning in terms of construction quality), you will have to figure out whether it fits and flatters. Does the shoulder line look right? Why are there divots at the sleevehead? Are the quarters supposed to be this open? For many men, especially those outside of major cities, these are questions they'll have to answer themselves.

Let's now suppose you've done all the proper research and determined that you do, in fact, have a good suit. Now you will need to get it adjusted, as all ready-to-wear tailoring requires some tweaks (such as lowering the collar or adjusting the sleeves). Do you have a local alterations tailor to handle this for you? If you're in a major city, perhaps; if not, then perhaps not.

Let us again suppose you've procured the right suit, got it adjusted, and it looks fantastic. Do you know how to wear it well? Once again, you will have to educate yourself, as most salespeople are not particularly useful in this regard. Many are more concerned about looking young, hip, and fashionable. If you want to wear a suit more classically, like Grant below, you will have to turn to the annoying menswear nerds online, one of whom is snarky progressive non-white immigrant on Twitter.

OK, let's say you've got it all figured out — you have the suit, it's been adjusted, and you've learned all the stupid rules the menswear guy on Twitter talks about.

We now reach the demand side. Most men don't want to dress like this because it makes them stand out. When everyone else is in t-shirts and jeans, or polo shirts and chinos, a gray Glen check suit with a properly knotted tie (four-in-hand, dimple) will make you look very unusual. Grant even has a collar pin in this pic! There are ways you can dress this down — swapping the suit for a sport coat, the shirt and tie for a denim Western shirt, the gray checked trousers for jeans, etc. But you will stand out.

Centuries of Western bias against fashion — an area of culture often deemed too superficial and commercial for "serious" people — means that many people don't want to dress in a way that signals they have an interest in clothes. This goes doubly for men. Since fashion was historically considered not something "serious" people engaged in, and women were pushed out of "serious" professions, such as finance, law, and academia, fashion is often coded as a feminine interest today.

Thus, if you're a man who dresses this way while everyone else dresses much more casually, you face two problems. First, some people may deem you to be superficial and potentially of low intelligence. Second, some may also question whether you're gay or fully masculine (sexuality and gender, of course, being two distinct things, but often conflated in a way that suggests gay men are feminine). People who reify traditional gender norms only make it less likely that this sort of garb will be worn again.

To me, that's the simple story for why most men don't dress like this: it requires much more effort than it did in the past, both in terms of procuring the clothes and knowing how to wear them. Once done successfully, you also have to be a certain kind of character to not care about standing out. It's a supply and demand problem.

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@lumiere_henry @Monarquia1825 Só putas e viados apoiam qualquer outro lado além de Stannis

[Empire Aesthetics @Empireaesth]

“General Officers of the Great War”

- John Singer Sargent (1922)

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@asuka_chiquita Pode manter o "WASP" se for Católico. Fica "White Anglo Saxon Papist"

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@victorbragaj @napoleonsoldier @magic_sanches Não. Sir Adrian Carton, absolutamente louco

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@NickCKN @Vitruvius___

[背広紳士＠IT企業勤務のサラリーマン @suit_2025]

さて、そもそもブレザーって何やねん？っていう話があるかと思いまして。

そもそも「ブレザー（Blazer）」とは、スーツのように上下共地で仕立てられたものではなく、単体で着用される「金属製または装飾的なボタンを備えた、スポーティなラウンジ・ジャケット」の総称と言われています。

そのルーツは、19世紀中頃の英国における2つの全く異なる制服（ユニフォーム）に遡ります (諸説あります)。

1. ブレザーの二大潮流

ブレザーの起源には、明確に異なる2つの系統が存在します。現代のブレザーは、これら2つが融合・発展したものです。

カレッジ・ブレザー（シングルブレストの源流）：
「ブレザー」という言葉の語源となったのが、こちらの系統です。
19世紀後��、ケンブリッジ大学のカレッジボートクラブであるセント・ジョンズ・カレッジ・ボートクラブ（レディ・マーガレッ���・ボートクラブ）のクルーが着用していたジャケットが起源とされています。

彼らは水上でのウォームアップ用として、燃えるような真紅（Scarlet Red）のフランネル・ジャケットを着用していました。この鮮やかな赤色が炎のように燃え立つ（Blaze）ように見えたことから、「Blazer（燃えるような色・輝くもの）」と呼ばれるようになりました。

このカレッジ・ブレザーは、所属を示すための派手なストライプ柄や、パイピング（縁取り）、胸ポケットのエンブレムなどの特徴を持ち、主にシングルブレストで仕立てられました。

ネイビー・ブレザー（ダブルブレストの源流）：
もう一つの潮流が、英国海軍（ロイヤル・ネイビー）の軍服に由来するものです。
先のポストでも触れましたが、19世紀中頃の海軍士官候補生が着用していた防寒・作業���のショートコート「リーファー・ジャケット」が原型です。

1837年にフリゲート艦「ブレイザー号（HMS Blazer）」の艦長が乗組員に揃いのネイビージャケットを着せたという記録があり、これが海軍型ジャケットを「ブレザー」と呼ぶもう一つの語源説となっています。

こちらは厳しい海風を防ぐための深い打ち合いを持つ、ダブルブレストが基本構造です。

2. テーラリングと衣服構造の観点からの特徴

19世紀から20世紀初頭にかけて、サヴィル・ロウなどのテーラーは、これらのユニフォームを紳士のスポーツ・ラウンジウェアとして洗練させていきました。
ブレザーをスーツ・ジャケットと区別する決定的な衣服構造の特徴は以下の通りです。

金属ボタン（メタルボタン）：
真鍮、銀、金メッキなどの金属ボタンが最も象徴的なディテールです。
海軍由来のものは塩害を防ぐ実用性から、カレッジ由来のものは所属クラブや学校の紋章を刻印し帰属意識を示��目的から採用されました。

パッチポケット（アウトポケット）：
胸や腰のポケットが、生地を外側から縫い付けたパッチポケットになっている点も重要な特徴です。
スーツに用いられるフラップ付きの切り込みポケット（ウェルトポケット等）と比較して、パッチポケットはスポーティでカジュアルな印象を与え、元来が屋外での活動（ボート、クリケット、テニスなど）を前提とした衣服であることを示しています。

ベントの構造：
初期の海軍用リーファージャケットは防風性を高めるためにノーベント（切れ込みなし）でしたが、カレッジブレザーなどのスポーツ用途では動きやすさが求められました。
その後、乗馬時の利便性などに由来する「サイドベンツ」、あるいはアメリカで好まれた「センターベント」が採用されるようになり、現在ではサイドベンツが英国式ブレザーの標準的な仕様として定着しています。

ステッチワーク：
ラペル（襟）やフロントの端に、意図的に目立つステッチ（ミシンステッチやハンドステッチ）を施すことが多くあります。
これもパッチポケットと同様、フォーマルなスーツとは異なるカジュアルな耐久性を表現する伝統的な手法です。

3. 現代における位置づけ

20世紀に入ると、エドワード7世をはじめとする王侯貴族や富裕層が、これらのジャケットを避暑地やヨットクラブでのリゾートウェアとして愛用するようになりました。

現在「ブレザー」と呼称される衣服は、カレッジ由来の「シングルブレスト・金属ボタン・パッチポケット」と、海軍由来の「ダブルブレスト・ネイビーカラー」という要素が混ざり合い、仕立て服の中で「最もフォーマル度の高いカジュアルウェア」、あるいは「最もカジュアルなフォーマルウェア」という独自の立ち位置を確立しています。

厳格なドレスコードが求められる場には適しませんが、都市部でのスマートカジュアルや、クラブライフにおける紳士の制服として、不動の地位を築いていると言えるでしょう。

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@LP1080pi @merdestinoincel Nós nessa porra

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@decebalulus Não só com relógios, mas noto isso com joias também. Não tem nenhuma loja das grandes joalherias do mundo (a De Beers acho que fechou a última uns 20 anos atrás), no máximo a Graff em um aeroporto se não me engano.

[Tiago @Bagpiper__]

@LP1080pi @Gigapardos Based? Eu também prefiro votar no painho do que em um membro da família froxounaro. Pelo menos ele não ferra os homens querendo criar uma ginecocracia