Jasmin Honegger, PhD

(she/they) • Climbing Research Initiative: Movement & Performance Labs • Biomechanics • Rock climbing research & science

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Being forceful vs. having flow.

This applies to both #climbing and life as a whole.

You must recognize where to put your effort and where to conserve energy.

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Effective training is all about the right stimulus.

It’s important to progressively challenge movement skills just as progressive overload is needed in strength training.

Without consistent progressive work, you won’t be seeing many “gains” from the time you put in.

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Overuse injury isn’t just due to doing certain types of training/activity too much.

Improper technique can also take its toll on the body. Repetitive moves with poor form or doing moves you’re not used to can have consequences.

Improving how you move is essential for longevity.

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Even if you don’t do in-depth movement analysis, there is so much benefit from filming yourself in your sessions.

Watching how your body moves (from an outside perspective) and connecting that with how you felt and how you thought you moved is immensely useful.

[World Climbing @worldclimbing]

Natalia Grossman 🇺🇸 tops AGAIN the four semi-final boulders and leads the group of six athletes advancing to the women's final round.

#IFSC #SportClimbing #InnsbruckWC

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Today’s reminder:

“Big things have small beginnings.”

- Lao Tzu

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Don’t forget what’s necessary on the path to mastery.

To hone your craft you must deliberately practice and challenge your skillset.

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Reflection and feedback are necessary for the path to refinement and mastery.

Does your training involve random, mindless repetitions or consistent, focused attention?

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

One of the most essential skills in climbing: #Curiosity.

Have an open mind, try many different movements, tweak and refine, ask questions.

You can find the article I wrote at https://t.co/9fst9T1ts1

Science + Experience + Practical Tips.

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Did you know you can use momentum to actually keep stable?

Momentum can be used to solidify and reinforce contacts.

Try and think about it next time you’re #climbing

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Momentum & Coordination: simple words with big implications.

What do they mean to you?

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

“Some people think that as soon as you plant a tree, it must bear fruit. We must allow it to grow a bit.”

-Tunku Abdul Rahman

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

How is your ability to respond optimally to unanticipated novel conditions? If your training is too predictable, you may think you’ve mastered a skill when that’s only true in specific conditions.

#metamemory

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

There’s such rich information embedded in the movement of high level athletes. Check out some analysis I did with @udini. Link in bio for more details!

[Natalie Berry @natalie_a_berry]

If you want to know why Janja Garnbret is so dominant in competition climbing, a lot hinges on her no-holds-barred approach to movement and ability to keep collisional energy loss to a minimum. @udini understands the physics of her excellence.1/3 @WiredUK https://t.co/ExUccgAEeh

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

@Smart_Climbing I second this! Would be an excellent PhD topic

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

Climbing is cognitively demanding.

Skilled climbers know their skillset well and how to correctly plan movement sequences with it.

#cognition #biomechanics #climbing

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

more at https://t.co/59S6AIxwYR (link in bio)

[Eric Hörst @Train4Climbing]

True story.

[Jasmin Honegger, PhD @crimplabs]

A curious climber is an excellent climber.

Exploring a variety of techniques & movement patterns starts to enable system degeneracy —> ability to adapt coordination patterns to changes in environment without sacrificing functionality.