@jeffqchen I used one of those shit power (lol) supplies for my EE lab class. It works but the display was always pretty inaccurate for what voltage I needed output. I ended up using my fluke meter to calibrate output and ignoring the display all together.
@usa_retro This is my 20E1 with 95K on it. Tube was lifeless. I used the clean and balance function on it with my BK tester and it brought it back to life. Just make sure the tube is face down when you do it. She might make some angry pops after too. But the result is amazing.
@jeffqchen When I was overseas, I bought a pair of โshieldedโ PC speakers that could be arranged as a pair or snapped together to form a soundbar. How do you think they snapped together to be a soundbar? With a magnet. I used those $10 speakers for like 5 years though ๐โโ๏ธ
@HDRetrovision Iโm studying electrical engineering and Iโve tried using it to verify some answers for homework regarding Boolean algebra and AI answers have actually been wrong multiple times ๐โโ๏ธ
@usa_retro Careful. Looking at that color bars, red is low. I had someone with a 1954Q that had similar experiences, albeit overly blue, and blue output also looked like that when it was working. Thereโs an amp issue on the board as I was able to replicate it by swapping color lines.
@Voultar@Arthrimus While you could extract the digital audio from the HDMI after the mod, I agree this is a better solution and Iโm 100% for preserving the TOSLINK port.
@usa_retro I wonder if the ribbon connector on the multiout was reversed and you inserted it from the back instead of the cart connector side if that would improve the routing. I had a similar issue but I stuck something in the console to tuck it upward when I installed the top half.