Ilya Varlamov

Russian journalist. Exploring the world (and my own country!) Here we talk cultures, social issues and even politics.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

Just yesterday, you might’ve been sitting in a dusty office, and today, you’re exploring palaces. Giant halls, incredible decor, and luxury. Ofc, like in any fairy tale, midnight is inevitable, and your carriage will eventually turn back into a pumpkin. But who cares about that?

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

Las Vegas left me with mixed feelings. On the one hand, it's a great city! It goes ahead of its time in many ways. Even before Dubai and the like came on stage, Vegas realized everything should be the best of the best.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

So, what’s the secret? Vegas sells a fairy tale. You come here and find yourself in a dream. Just one street contains all the world’s landmarks, from the Eiffel Tower to the Venetian canals.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

It reminds us of how fragile life is and how easily you can fall from splendor down to the very bottom.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

Some spend decades there. I’ve met people who’ve lived in the tunnels for more than 15 years. They’ll probably stay down there — it's harder to climb up than go down.

Tourists see Vegas as a celebration, luxury, shows, and casinos.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

There is a woman next to him. My camera scares her, she asks me not to film, and leaves. There is a life even down here.
The underground of Vegas is as much a part of the city as casinos and hotels.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

They believe the smoke escapes through vents, but it looks dangerous. The smell clings to your clothes and lingers on even after washing.

People end up at the bottom of Vegas for various reasons. D**gs, casino failures, losing a job. Some live underground to save money.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

On your way from one settlement to another, you walk for miles with no idea where the tunnel will lead you. Your constant companion is the pungent smell, a mix of garbage, feces, mold, and burnt plastic. Mole people burn trash right there for warmth or cooking.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

Some communities use d**gs, while others drink b**ze.

The premises are eerie. Concrete tunnels are two to three meters wide. Sometimes they are dry, but more often, there's a few centimeters of water.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

Even though Las Vegas is located in a desert, heavy rains are not rare. Hundreds of kilometers of storm tunnels were built to prevent the city from flooding. The tunnels have become an underground city for so-called "mole people" — the homeless who have gone underground.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

No one knows for sure how many people live in there. Some believe there are a few hundred, some claim up to three thousand. Tunnel people create communities and defend their territory. Settlements are often based on the substances they use.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

— Seems like God doesn’t exist… Because if He did, how do you explain the continued existence of taxi drivers, real estate agents, and crypto tycoons?

And with that, I take my leave. Off to watch the sunset by the river. Wishing you all something infinitely eternal.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

Lately, I keep catching myself thinking that this world makes complete sense to me. I’m not here looking for anything except peace, tranquility, and harmony. It feels like I’ve been an old sage for a long time already.

[Ilya Varlamov @ilyavrlmv]

— Two of the most hopeless countries in the world? Cuba and Eritrea.
— Almost everywhere, people clap when the plane lands.
— The most boring countries? Tiny island nations.
— The most stunning natural beauty? Iceland.