Chris Callis

Head of Design @propercloth and effort guy @sdaprotour

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore “Someone”

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore And in a formal wool barathea with kangaroo patch pockets. A truly bizarre garment.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@DanAlroyPhilo @rfkenmore @DanAlroyPhilo @rfkenmore i'm biased but ours at @ProperCloth. More muted colors than most, but if you like it put ours up against anyone. Aside from us I'd probably say O'Connells or J. Press. The Permanent Style ones well made but i don't like the patterns.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore @DanAlroyPhilo @rfkenmore and rarely is a madras good if it’s not from the source. Have seen some decent things from Japan, but India always best bet. Anytime I see a traditional poplin with a madras pattern it’s usually followed by bad collars, cut corners, and unconsidered details…

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore @DanAlroyPhilo @rfkenmore poplins typically higher thread count, denser, best ones 2-ply. Madras lower count single ply and a little more open weave to be more airy and casual soft feel. Historically handloomed, not as twisted in spinning or mercerized or which gives them more irregular yarns.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore another bad year for linen crop means linen prices going up for SS27. General trend that will continue with climate stuff, some years are worse than others. Expect linen to move more and more towards a luxury fiber direction over time.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore they're great, bit of a cult following. Crazy wait list at one point. If you haven't had a golden before would suggest getting a show rather than field golden for the city. We have a field, love him, but they are higher energy and can be more difficult with city life and sounds.

[Proper Cloth @ProperCloth]

The Merino Wool Dress Shirt can be your all-natural, four-season, easy-care replacement for non-irons. Chris Callis, our Head of Design, breaks it down.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore Well, I'd call it more of a breakdown of process/brand guidelines than an intentional vibe. We're evolving some things on the art and styling side, and working on accessorizing more on casual looks is part of that. Excited for the direction, but plenty of refinement to do.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore Tough to find identity when your heritage is safari but you become an officewear brand. Feels like they want to be be affordable Todd Snyder, while bring back heritage items, without letting go of their core sellers.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore @rfkenmore next time drop by PC on 5th ave and don’t hold back

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore These have quietly been one of our best selling bottoms since 2023. Much more popular than our ABC pant alternative.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@ebitdaddy90 @rfkenmore Fwiw I think Buck Mason is doing as good or better of a job as anyone in the menswear space—very impressive stuff. All this being said, I promise not to use your criticism as motivation for future work…

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@ebitdaddy90 @rfkenmore Yeah, to each their own. From where I’m sitting things are def getting better and the fits have changed quite a bit. I would also encourage you to consider that different content has different goals—not everything is a brand campaign like the one @rfkenmore referenced.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore @ebitdaddy90 A good dog adds value in every area of life, lookbooks are no exception

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@rfkenmore @ebitdaddy90 Fewer slim cropped fits and I think our styling is better than ever 🤷‍♂️

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@dieworkwear Personally, I could see a Cucinelli model working in the US. The right brand could build a community/workforce in a more affordable living area where they really focus on training and building expertise. But would be a massive investment and need to be a core value of the brand.

[Chris Callis @MenofHabit]

@dieworkwear For US clothing manufacturing to become relevant, I agree with @dieworkwear that you'll need to do it at the luxury level. Most importantly, you need a brand that inspires people to be interested in artisanship and manufacturing, as finding workers will be the hardest part.