Justine Dupont rode a wave roughly 100 miles west of San Diego because an underwater mountain forced the Pacific to stand up.
I researched and assembled this footage, and that still blows my mind. Cortes Bank is not a beach break. It is a shallow reef sitting on a submerged seamount that rises abruptly from very deep water.
A long-period west-northwest swell reached the bank with low tide and offshore wind. As that energy met the underwater ridge, part of it slowed and bent towards the shallows, concentrating the swell into the fast, hollow wall Dupont is riding.
What I love most is how much difficulty the camera cannot show. There is no coastline to help you judge your position, and reaching the break means boats, skis, forecasting and a serious safety crew before anyone even thinks about the takeoff.
I find that almost as impressive as the surfing itself.
On September 24th, #FIFTYFIFTY Athena is scheduled to participate in a joint broadcast of a deep dive into the details of Valorant tournament with streamer LookSam at 4PM KST.
#피프티피프티#ATHENA#아테나