If you're based in the United States and interested in bespoke tailoring, here are two trunk shows coming up.
The first is taillour, which is run by Fred Nieddu (the cutter) and Lee Rekert (business manager). A good percentage of their work is for films, movies, and TV shows. In fact, they made all of the menswear for the Netflix series The Crown. Given their costuming work, I think they're more flexible than most tailors. But still, there's wisdom in that old advice: choose a tailor based on their house style. You will be happier if you stay close to what they are used to making.
For taillour, that generally means a slightly extended shoulder with full chest and longer jacket. The lapels are very straight (no belly) and the jacket's collar tends to be a bit big and angular. Something about their jackets remind me of old Apparel Arts illustrations, which were angular for stylistic purposes.
Interestingly, Fred's jackets are somewhat similar to Neapolitan tailoring in that the jacket features just a single layer of canvas across the body and a bit of laptair around the top of the jacket for structure. But there's no domette, as you'd find on a typical English jacket, which makes his tailoring feel lighter and softer.
IMO, a taillour jacket is instantly recognizable in that it fits comfortably full, but still has shape, and is distinguished by the kind of angular lines you commonly see on their flyers (a bit Art Deco-y). Goes well with knife pleat trousers and loafers.
The second is Sartoria Pastena Elegance. Years ago, noticed that some people on a menswear forum were getting uncommonly good tailoring from a Neapolitan tailoring firm named Sartoria Pastena Elegance (run by someone named Antonio). In the world of men's tailoring, Neapolitan style tends to be among the softest, which means it can sometimes fit a bit trim. But this stuff was nice and full with good, classic proportions and a lot of shaping. This was the sort of stuff you typically see from older Italian tailors, who I think have a higher level of taste.
The most surprising thing was that many of these customers were simply sending Antonio their old jackets and asking him to make a version based on those measurements. He would send two jackets in return—the original and his version—and the new jackets fit perfectly (uncommon, which is why tailors do in-person fittings). With some success under his wings, Antonio started to travel to the US to take orders and conduct fittings. From what I've seen, the results are very good.
My friend David is one of their clients and has gotten a lot of good stuff from them, including the brown cavalry suit you see above. From what I remember, their prices are a bit lower than what you can expect to pay at other tailoring houses, which makes the offer a bit sweeter. Since they are a Neapolitan tailoring company, you'll have to love Neapolitan style, which means soft shoulder and jackets made with an extended front dart.
As always, I get nothing from these making these announcements. I don't get commissions, kickbacks, ad payments, discounts, or whatever else. I only make them on here because I genuinely love bespoke tailoring and I am happy to help connect people to good makers. IMO, every hobby needs a stream of new enthusiasts so the trade can stay alive. I hope these threads do that. If you have questions, please contact the tailors directly.
re uploaded after it was blocked globally, pls click the link and support to help this one in the algorithm 🩷 It’s currently suffering cos everyone’s seen the og blocked version and therefore not clicking on it making YouTube bury it in the algo 😔 https://t.co/6mHuMcBEqP