Looking for a GMT without stretching into luxury-watch pricing?
Check them out here: https://t.co/RaHCw61g79
We pulled together a range of options under $1,500 across automatic, quartz, field, dive, and travel-focused designs.
The collection includes everything from straightforward everyday GMTs to more rugged tool watches and feature-packed worldtimers.
The Grand Seiko SBGJ273 “Yuka Momiji” is a great example of how an expressive dial can actually make the brand’s finishing even more noticeable.
Its striated red dial takes inspiration from traditional Japanese lacquered floors reflecting the vivid colors of autumn leaves. The texture creates an impressive range of red tones depending on the light and gives the watch considerably more depth than you might expect from a single-color dial.
What makes the SBGJ273 particularly interesting is how that bold backdrop plays against Grand Seiko’s typically precise finishing. The Zaratsu-polished case and contrasting brushed surfaces are complemented by the mixture of finishing techniques across the dial details. The contrast between the expressive dial and precise finishing is a big part of what makes this watch work.
That attention to detail continues through the caseback with the finishing applied to the movement components. It adds another area to appreciate on a watch that already offers plenty to explore from the front.
It’s an intricate take on Grand Seiko’s design language and one that really benefits from being seen up close.
Sound on for this one.
That is not a chime. It is the overture to Rossini's The Thieving Magpie, played by the watch, and the reason the whole dial is turning is that the dial is the instrument.
Bolted underneath it is a disc studded with pins. As it rotates, those pins pluck a comb of fifteen tuned steel teeth, exactly the way a music box works. A minute repeater uses hammers and gongs to tell you what time it is. This one tells you nothing. It just plays. One full revolution, twenty to twenty five seconds, and it stops.
The hard part was tempo, because every pin that catches a tooth steals energy and the song slows as it goes. Breguet solved it with the first magnetic governor ever put in a production wristwatch. Silver arms spin inside a ring of magnets and are braked by eddy currents without ever touching anything. Across four consecutive plays the melody drifts from nineteen seconds to eighteen.
Getting the sound out of a sealed gold case was the other problem. The caseback is pierced to form a resonator and the movement is sealed beneath a membrane of Liquidmetal. Thirty metres of water resistance, with holes in the back.
And the tune is not a random pick. Gioachino Rossini was a Breguet client. This is the house playing its own customer's music back to him, a hundred and ninety years later.
Breguet 7800BB Classique La Musicale. Available now.
Studio Underd0g Watches se une con Ahmed Seddiqi para presentar el 03SERIES Chan3ad (Kingfish), una colaboración inspirada en el kingfish que habita en aguas de Emiratos Árabes Unidos. La pieza traduce sus tonos azul grisáceo y rosados a una carátula de doble capa, acompañada por numerales arábigos orientales.
En su interior equipa un Sellita SW510-M de cuerda manual, cronógrafo monopulsador con acabados personalizados y 63 horas de reserva de marcha.
El concepto también llega a la correa: una pieza en piel de salmón negra procedente de Islandia, acompañada además por una malla milanesa.
Solo se producirán 100 ejemplares numerados, ensamblados en Gran Bretaña, y estarán disponibles exclusivamente a través de Ahmed Seddiqi.
Edición de solo 100 piezas.
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