I've always loved Olivier Theyskens's Nina Ricci S/S 2009. It rarely gets the love his other collections do, but there's something deliciously sinister about its glamor. Delicate florals, floating trains, gothic styling.
Josephus Thimister was such a rare and underrated talent. He really looked at traditional elegance and though "what if i ruined it just a little?"
Burnt hems, peeling wax, fabrics coming apart. His S/S 2000 is somehow more beautiful because of it.
I have a love/hate relationship with Stefano Pilati. His YSL could be maddeningly awkward one minute and breathtakingly romantic the next. F/W 2005 is the latter.
Balenciaga's clothes and shoes are STILL struggling.
A fashion house where the FASHION is the least desirable part of the business is perhaps the most accurate summary of modern luxury I've ever heard.
american fashion became important because it wasn't paris. sportswear, denim, streetwear, hollywood, all of it. so why does nyfw keep trying to prove it can be paris instead of remembering what made it interesting?
There's a reason why Lagerfeld held Valentino in higher esteem than any other of his contemporaries.
F/W 2006 is some of the best RTW Valentino ever created.