Iām up north right now for a change of sceneryā¦.
And, talking of changes, Iāve also made the decision not to post on X anymore, so please come join me on Instagram instead at https://t.co/VX32lz1jSn
and enjoy my Alaskan adventures with Mr. Richard Horsey! š
Time to take flight again across the sea, over the Atlantic, skirting Iceland, traversing Greenland, across the Rocky Mountains, and finally touching down in rugged British Columbia.
Canada, weāve never had the pleasure before, but I already feel youāre going to be rather special, for a number of reasons šØš¦š
Mum had always been very clear that she wanted a colourful Celebration of Life, not a mournful funeral, and so thatās exactly what we tried to give her.
Standing up in the chapel to deliver my eulogy on Tuesday, there was rather a lot to fit in.
First was her creativity - an artist, sculptor, poet, writer, dressmaker, musician, ballroom dancing teacherā¦it just never stopped.
Then there was her curiosity for the world. At just 21, she sailed half way around it to Australia where she lived for the next 6 years before taking another ship home via the Americas, so completing a circumnavigation of the globe. And all that in the 1960s with no WhatsApp, ChatGPT or Google Maps in sight.
She was always learning and reading - the last book she left on her bedside table (at 82 years old) was āNeuroscience for Dummiesā. That sense of wonder and openness to new things was combined with a delightful playfulness, an adamant refusal to grow up, reflected in the almost constant twinkle in her lovely green eyes.
Then there was her generosity and kindness. She constantly saw the best in people and supported us in whatever we did, so long as our hearts were in it. EVEN when my sister decided to become a sex therapist and I went off in search of the yeti.
She always told me the world was my oyster as I was growing up, which set in motion my peripatetic life. Thankfully though, I was right back at her side when she passed. And by some miracle that confounded even the doctors, she emerged from her comatose state and opened her eyes for a short while as we played her favourite songs and told her we loved her.
As I sit waiting to board my flight out of London, Iām still in a netherworld, all certainties dashed, floored by the omnipotence of āthis too shall passā, even the one person who was always there right from the very beginning.
But I do know that she would want me to carry on the adventure she began, to continue the dance. And the journey to new shores Iām embarking on now feels the perfect way to do so. As well as to start coming to terms with the biggest change, the biggest loss, that Iāve ever known.
To our beautiful, funny, elegant, charming, one-in-a-million mother, who departed this earth on her final sailing this afternoon.
Wherever you are in the world, weād be so grateful if you could raise a glass to her today to celebrate a simply amazing life - and please send a photo š
Joanna and Andrew
Throwback Thursday: I spent the next few years living in Myanmar (or Burma if you prefer - itās more complicated than you might thinkā¦). Itās a beautiful, fascinating and diverse country, from the golden Shwedagon pagoda in Yangon to the lush rolling hills of the Shan states, from the sublime Inle Lake to the pristine beaches and islands of the far south.
I think itās also the only place Iāve ever been where hawkers come round renting books to read on long train journeys - a testament to the remarkable resilience of peopleās desire for knowledge, something thatās somehow survived decades of under-investment in the education system.
But itās not just the education system unfortunately. Tragically, the countryās enormous potential across the board has been stymied by a long history of oppression and armed conflict. Events took an even darker turn with the 2021 military coup (by which time Iād already left the country). The army refused to accept the results of democratic elections and an ongoing brutal crackdown now makes violence and suffering a daily reality for millions.
Itās been absolutely devastating to see how events have unfolded over the last couple of years and the terrible impact this has had on my many Myanmar friends and the people of the country as a whole, a people who have already suffered so much over so many decades. We can now only hope that weāre approaching the cusp of a new dawn.
In all the years Iāve been training in Tai Chi Chuan, I think this wins the prize as the most beautiful spot Iāve found for morning practice - up at 4,000 metres just outside the charming village of Phortse in the Nepali Himalayas, with Mount Everest right around the corner.
Training and teaching this martial art has been the one constant in my life over the past couple of decades. And yes it IS a martial art, although most people have sadly forgotten that side of it. The smooth flowing sequence is actually a series of self defence moves that you perform slowly to get them right. Youāre supposed to then separate them out, speed them up, and practice using them against a partner who plays the role of an attacker. The complete art also includes a range of conditioning and energy-boosting drills and even weapons work.
But apart from the practical self defence for which is was designed, Tai Chi also has simply amazing health benefits, including some invaluable mental ones - moving slowly and smoothly accompanied by breathing deeply inevitably calms a hyperactive mind and brings you back to the beauty of the present moment.
There really is no better way to start the day!
Throwback Thursday: Iāve so far refrained from mentioning former significant others in these posts out of respect for their privacy. But suffice to say that, as an itinerant tramp, itās never been easy maintaining a long term relationship.
Another motivation for my admirable discretion in this regard is atonement for having perhaps once gone just a tad too far in the other direction, penning an entire book that guest-starred my ex-partner.
My time in Nepal had come to an end when, on a short consultancy assignment to Burma, I became rather smitten with the country and so decided to move there next. I soon realised it would make an even better home if I had my old Royal Enfield motorcycle from India with me to pootle around the back roads of Mandalay on, and so, in a flash of genius, I decided to pop back over to Delhi and ride the bike over, passing through Nepal and Bhutan en route - I mean, how hard could it be?
Quite bloody hard as it turned out.
I invited my partner of the time to join me, mainly as a way to try to impress her as I had a niggling feeling that she found me rather underwhelming a lot of the time. Following a complete lack of adequate preparation, we then rode through some of the wildest parts of India, Nepal, Bhutan and Burma. Along the way we contended with suicidal roads, tribal head-hunters, an alarming number of men with guns, and a border that hadnāt been crossed in fifty years. That all took a very heavy toll, both on the bike and on our relationship.
Having barely survived the whole experience and more than a little perturbed, I decided it would be cathartic to write about it. And so āThe Wrong Way Round: How Not to Travel to Burma by Motorcycleā was born, a book that British national treasure Joanna Lumley subsequently very kindly described as āa spectacular journeyā¦a thrilling rollercoasterā¦gripping from start to finishā¦madcap, funny, evocative, daringā¦and quite soppy at times!ā Bless her.
Itās available on Amazon - https://t.co/ST8t3ahgLw - and at all dodgy bookstores, plus an audiobook version is on the way!
In the past very much a water city, many of Bangkokās canals have now sadly been concreted over. But just about enough remain, along with the majestic curvatures of the mighty Chao Phraya river, to get around by boat if youāre a little creative.
And may I just say what a damn fine way to travel that actually is.
Throwback Thursday: Scrambling up a volcano near the Congolese border behind a man with an AK-47 was not my ideal way to spend a Sunday afternoon, especially when thereād been recent guerrilla activity in the area. But I had a good reason - thereād also been recent gorilla activity in the area.
Rwanda is an absolute jewel in the heart of Africa, known as the āland of a thousand hillsā, most of them impossibly green and gorgeous, especially when adorned with wisps of morning mist. Itās also a land of horrendous recent trauma where everyone you meet over a certain age has lived through a genocide.
Iād flown in from Kathmandu for an assignment with some foreign embassies in Kigali and was making a quick dash upcountry to try to see a gorilla, an animal dismissed for centuries as a myth by outsiders. Just like the hippo. And the panda. And the Komodo dragon. And I could go on - this āthey canāt know anything we donātā narrative was to become very familiar when I embarked on my yeti quest years later. But it already rang a bell for my work in Africa and Asia, as often the real root of the problem Iād been hired to fix was a failure to listen to the knowledge and expertise of local people.
āØThat afternoon, as I saw a giant paw through the trees and then a curious, half-turned face, I was initially convinced it was someone in a gorilla costume. The features, the expression, the intelligence in the eyes, Iād simply never seen anything like it outside of my own species. I quickly lowered my gaze to avoid a provocation and thankfully the giant silverback resumed munching on his bamboo. For the next couple of hours, I crouched in the foliage while he and his family gently went about their business around me. It was an absolutely enchanting experience.
But the uncanny valley feeling haunted me long afterwards. And when I was in the Himalayas with Richard listening to peopleās yeti stories, they described very similar creatures and reactions. And if those creatures really are out there, I can well understand why, like the gorillas of Rwanda, theyāre holed up in a remote corner somewhere trying to escape the madness of Homo sapiens.
#notquiteyeti #yetibbc #bbcyeti
@BasuAshis@jojolly@bbcworldservice Oh thatās great to hear! Richard and I will actually be paying our first visit to Canada in August and very much looking forward to it!
Anyone in need of a Himalayan fix? Well Iāve just the ticket: my most talented friend and former BBC Correspondent to Nepal, Jo Jolly, has a stonker of a new podcast out - Chasing Mountains!
It tells the true story of five female mountaineers, all of whom are trying to become the first woman to reach the summits of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Itās absolutely riveting stuff with mind-blowingly impressive people and, like all good stories, quite a twist in the taleā¦
Very well worth a listen and available now from wherever you get your podcasts - just search for āChasing Mountainsāšļø
Jo also deserves a very special mention for two good reasons: (1) when we first met and became friends in Nepal, she let me fulfill my lifelong dream by allowing me to stand in front of a TV camera with a microphone and say, āThis is Andrew Benfield, for BBC News, in Kathmanduā (sadly this was never broadcast to the nation).
And (2) it was her who had the idea that Richard and Iās ongoing quest for the yeti might just make a fetching BBC Radio 4 show and podcast - something weād certainly never considered. It was also subsequently her storytelling genius that morphed our rambling adventures and musings into a series fit for public consumption!
I should also mention that, being a quintessential Renaissance Woman, Jo has written a fascinating book on a completely different subject that you should check out - Red River Girl. Oh and she directs brilliant pantos.
Honestly, some peopleā¦.
By popular demand: a video of me getting slapped extensively in the face.
For the full account of what the devil was going on: https://t.co/3jegs4Yusy š š š
I find thereās something quite cathartic about playing an instrument and singing - itās a great way to release emotion and also come back to the present moment for a bit and shut your own head up.
A couple of years ago I took the plunge and started doing it in public (to be clear, not just like randomly in the street but in bars and with the ownerās permission). Singing in front of an audience is a bit intimidating at first, but thereās nothing like a round of applause (and even the occasional whoop if punters are tipsy), to give you a nice warm buzz and the feeling youāve given someone a little bit of joy, even if it was with Gloria Gaynorās helping hand.
So a new venue has asked me to send them an example of my oeuvre, and Iāve just submitted this - now waiting to hear if I will survive their vetting⦠š¬