@listlingz some categories:
structured tops- Rick, BPN
bottoms- Rick, Yohji
unstructured layers - Limi/Yohji, ISW9, Ann D
accessorizing - Ann D, Alice Auaa, KMRII
also i only shop rick atp for jackets/tops bc all other designers cut their shoulders too wide (especially ann d ughhh)
@listlingz starting from scratch - lolita is great b/c it gives rules that build a nice silhouette + recreating looks from Rick Owens Stag/Naska
when i shop i have a fuzzy idea of the shape of the garment - then i search designers that i think are most likely to attempt an item like that