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A tirade.
Against @Indian_Accent, Delhi’s much-lauded temple of gastronomy, where the well-heeled and the well-fed go to stroke their palates with innovation. A couple of days back, they were found peddling a culinary sleight of hand.
The offending dish, an offering on the tasting menu, promised morel, water chestnut, and asparagus, hidden beneath a ‘paper roast dosai’ (Exhibit A). One is always excited at the prospect of encountering a well-sourced morel, the truffle of the East—that decadent jewel from from the forests of J & K that costs more than an Indian family’s grocery bill for half a month. What arrived under the dosa cone, was not the morel, but a drab cluster of the most ordinary button mushrooms, the kind one might expect in a roadside stir-fry, the fungal equivalent of a counterfeit handbag. If you’re going to list morels on the menu, then there better be morels on the plate, not the fungal detritus scraped from the bottom of a vegetable box (Exhibit B).
This wasn’t an error. It was a deliberate act of chicanery. A calculated decision. Someone in the kitchen, or perhaps in the higher echelons of the restaurant, took it upon themselves to substitute the expensive morel with a far cheaper imposter, fully believing that these particular patrons, who probably didn’t look like the sort to have tasted morel before, wouldn’t know the difference.
When summoned, the chef performed the customary song-and-dance of apology, claiming he would ‘fix it in under two minutes.’ And he did. Miraculously. Brought in a new plate, flush with morels. Which begs the question—how is a fine dining restaurant able to replace a dish in less time than it takes me to open a bottle of cheap plonk? Pre-prepared, perhaps? If this kitchen is churning out dishes with all the haste of an airport lounge buffet, then what exactly are the patrons paying for? The pomp? The pretense?
At this price point, we are not paying for mere food, but for integrity, for the understanding that what is stated on the menu is what will arrive on the plate. When a fine dining restaurant offers morel and serves common mushrooms, they are engaging in outright theft.
Ordinarily, I’d let such an infraction slide. If it were some second-rate restaurant peddling Instagram-friendly fusion fare, I’d roll my eyes and quietly consign it to the bin of forgettable meals. But this is the restaurant that Condé Nast Traveller, in a flight of wild, hyperventilating praise, swears is the very best in all of India. It’s nestled comfortably on Asia's 50 Best Restaurants list, ranked #26—an achievement it brandishes like a Michelin star. Time Magazine calls it one of the 'World's 100 Greatest Places'
The question that naturally arises from this regrettable sleight of hand is: who, precisely, stands to benefit from this deception? Who profits from swapping out the Rolls-Royce of fungi for the rusted banger of button mushrooms? Certainly not the kitchen staff, who, I imagine, are too busy executing their preordained choreography to engage in such duplicity. Nor, I suspect, the serving staff, who would have to nervously deliver these imposters to tables, hoping against hope that no discerning palate calls foul. The chefs? Perhaps, but not in any way that bolsters their culinary pride. They’re not stashing a wad of cash in their aprons or taking home the saved morels. My sense is that their hands are tied by those behind the curtain.
To call this ‘cheap and petty’ would be charitable.
Is AI replacing customer service completely? @urbancompany_UC charges almost 50% as cancellation. Nowhere to get someone on call. If professional is 30 mins late why should I pay the compensation? Chat bot on customer care is giving limited pre fed options. How does this work?
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Firstly, happy Lakshadweep is getting some love! Secondly, Somewhere in the Maldives, right now, is an Indian celebrity/influencer, who didn’t eat carbs for two weeks, took the best vacation photos ever, and is TERRIFIED to post them :-)
By the age of 15, @DagaShreyaan, @Onlinelivelearn's co-founder, was interning at the stock exchange. Now, at 19 years, he's a seasoned entrepreneur. @tasmayee spoke to him about his entrepreneurial journey & his involvement with CNBC-TV18's Skill Tank
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@tasmayee reports.
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