THE MISSION SHIFTS. THE COMPASS HOLDS.
This was never the plan. Initially, the plan was to climb just G2. But just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits. That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here , only one remains “Cho Oyu.” Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen.
This wasn’t planned. The Hattrick project was the focus because it carried a bigger mission. But opportunities don’t scream: they whisper to those already working in silence.
Here’s the secret I’ve carried through every expedition: I never competed with anyone else. My only battle was against the man I was yesterday. Every single day, pushing my own limits. Because the moment you look sideways: at what others are doing, saying, achieving: you drift off your compass. Your heading is YOURS. Guard it fiercely.
They criticized me when I climbed the 14 without O’s during Project Possible. If you haven’t seen what that took, watch 14 Peaks on Netflix. That film is the unfiltered truth. I was there doing multiple rescues of climbers left behind by other expeditions, raising the funds myself, leading from the front, fixing our own lines, dealing with the Shishapangma permit with China, being at hospitals for my mum’s operation and so much more. And now? Now I’m heading for the double without oxygen: triple in total. The noise hasn’t stopped. I just stopped listening.
To those who still doubt: I already climbed all 5 of Pakistan’s 8000ers in just 26 days. Leading. Guiding. Without oxygen. Breaking the records of those who broke mine with oxygen. The receipts are there.
Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one. The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it’s 100%. Always has been. Always will be.
This one is dedicated to everyone who carried me here. Supporters. Critics. All of you. Without both sides, there is no fire. So thank you genuinely.
My purpose has never been about me. It’s about what I represent. It’s about showing YOU that your own mountains—whatever they are—are climbable.
#nimsdai #eliteexped #everest
That’s two major times this climbing season that rescue was delayed for way too long! What are we doing??? Avalanche at 9:38 in the AM no rescue called for until 10pm?? Same thing happened on Everest in May.
Nims last post before his Board Peak mission.
I always thought it was crazy that he was still pushing so much, when he already holds so many records, has all the money, fame and prestige, and a family.
Yet it was precisely that drive that allowed him to achieve all of those things.
It's the same way boxing champions keep fighting long after they win the world title.
It's in their blood.
As he speaks about in this post, it's him against him.
He knows what he is capable of and is proving it to himself.
Unfortunately over a long enough time frame, an unpredictable event such as an avalanche becomes more and more likely.
Nims has shattered mountaineering records, has brought the power back to the Nepalese guides & sharpas, has created better working conditions for support staff on the mountain and has proven time and time again what is beyond possible.
RIP to the legend @nimsdai
one thing that has really stood out to me over the last couple of days covering this story is how many conversations eventually came back to the same thing.
nirmal “nimsdai” purja was not just one of the worlds greatest mountaineers. he helped change who the world recognized when it looked at the highest mountains.
before climbing became his life, nims spent 16 years in the british military, including service with the gurkhas and uk special forces. after leaving the military, he climbed all 14 of the worlds 8,000 meter peaks in just six months and six days.
helped lead the first successful winter ascent of k2 and became one of the most recognizable climbers in the world.
before this story, i think a lot of people outside the climbing community knew the word sherpa without really knowing the people behind it.
nims became one of the people who helped change that. not just through what he climbed but through who he was.
i think that is part of why this loss has reached so far beyond the climbing community.
rest in peace, nims.
for many people outside the climbing community, 14 peaks: nothing is impossible was likely their first introduction to nirmal “nimsdai” purja.
it was mine.
i have always been fascinated by mountaineering and the people willing to push into places most of us will never experience. the documentary introduced me to one of the sports most extraordinary climbers and gave me a much deeper appreciation for what he and so many others do in the worlds highest mountains.
if you have never seen it — it is well worth your time.
rest in peace, nims.
ब्रड पिक आरोहण गर्नु अघि निर्मल पुर्जाले लेखेका थिए - "यदि मैले यहाँ रहँदाहुँदै ब्रड पिक (Broad Peak) पनि सफलतापूर्वक आरोहण गर्न सकेँ भने, त्यसपछि केवल ‘चो ओयु (Cho Oyu)’ मात्र बाँकी रहनेछ। त्यसपछि म अक्सिजनको प्रयोग नगरी विश्वका सबै १४ वटा आठ हजार मिटरभन्दा अग्ला हिमाल दुई–दुई पटक आरोहण गर्ने इतिहासकै पहिलो व्यक्ति बन्नेछु।"
अधुरो रह्यो सपना।
@LostHistory9 Bro people like you who can’t accept that you HAVE to change stories when you change the medium it’s being told through are the reason so many shows get cancelled. If you don’t like it stfu and don’t watch. Yes it’s not true to Tolkien but it’s still a solid show to watch.