Baby Keem reveals who he’s been supporting in the World Cup ⚽️
"I'm only supporting Arsenal players, if you're an Arsenal player and you play for France or whoever, I'm supporting you. I’mma Arsenal fan, we good we just ate after 20 years.”
Everyone thinks the AP x Swatch "Royal Pop" dropping May 16 is just AP chasing MoonSwatch hype.
Maybe. But the timing is interesting.
AP just lost trademark fights in Japan (2024) and the US (2025). The courts ruled the octagonal bezel and tapisserie dial aren't "distinctive enough" to legally own.
Translation: knockoffs are coming, and AP can't really stop them.
So is it a coincidence that AP's now teaming with the one brand that can flood the market with a million "official" Royal Oak-shaped watches before the fakes do?
Maybe Swatch is actually defending brand.
Two Anthropic engineers spent 24 minutes exposing every Claude Code feature you didn't know existed.
Most people will scroll past this. Don't be most people.
If you're interested in bespoke tailoring and based in the United States or East Asia, I have some trunk show announcements for you.
A hundred years ago, most people entered the tailoring trade because they had few other opportunities for upward economic mobility. Many came from working-class families with a long lineage of tailors — they learned their trade from their father, who learned it from their father. As a result, tailoring shops were commonly divided into two sections. At the "front of house," there were directors and salespeople, who often had an interest in style. At the "back of the house," there were the cutters and tailors, who were better understood as technicians.
Today, the trade looks very different. Many of the younger tailors enter this trade because they have a passion for clothes. Such is the case of Jaden Chan, who founded Coller in 2016 after spending ten years working under other master tailors. At his company, he's creating a broad-shouldered silhouette that gives men a masculine V-shaped figure.
Coller uses three types of canvas and eleven darts to create this shaping. This includes a thin layer of body canvas and two layers of different types of haircloth to shape the chest. Combined with careful pad stitching and ironwork, this is how they create the sculpted chest you see above. In ready-to-wear, you typically only see the extremes — uber soft, shapeless chests or the armor-like silhouettes of Tom Ford. Coller represents a nice middle ground.
Coller is unique in that it's a small, independent tailoring company owned and led by a cutter (i.e., the person who drafts and cuts your pattern). The cutter is also very into style. In this way, you get both a style-minded fitter and a technically trained cutter in one person. Consider Coller if you're interested in working with a small, independent tailoring company where you'll get more individualized attention than at some of the bigger firms, but also want someone who can give you some reliable style advice.
When I started writing about men's tailoring fifteen years ago, much of the focus was on England, France, and Italy, where most of the work was being done. South Korea sat mostly on the margins, with only B&Tailor attracting any international attention. Today, South Korea is one of the most exciting places for not only bespoke tailoring, but menswear in general.
For instance, Hamin Kim is an independent tailor who worked as a cutter for Assisi. Today, she operates under her own banner, Hameen, where she's creating clothes for men and women. Her work is extremely clean: highly precise cutting and shaping, so you don't get any puckering, pulling, or excess fullness. Proportions are very classic and middle-of-the-road. The lapels have a very straight edge that smoothly glides into the gently curved quarters (the area of a jacket below the buttoning point), creating a crescent-shaped line that's reminiscent of Florentine style.
Hameen offers both bespoke and made-to-measure services, the latter of which allows people to access custom tailoring at a more affordable price. However, unlike the made-to-measure you may be familiar with in the United States (which is always factory-made), this is benchmade tailoring produced by hand. The difference is in how the patterns are drafted and how many fittings are done. Consider them if you're curious to explore one of the most vibrant regional centers for tailoring today.
Finally, my usual disclosure: this is not a paid tweet, as I don't do paid tweets or sponsored content. I get nothing from making these announcements — no money, kickbacks, discounts, store credit, free clothes, or whatever else. I only make these announcements because I love craft-based clothing, and it's my pleasure to promote real tailors. If you have questions, please get in touch with the tailors directly, as I'm not their representative.
an annoying part of our economy is now ppl building online audiences and then "starting a business," which is them releasing generic products sourced from a factory, often merch printed on blanks, just to create a revenue stream. zero skill or even love for what they're selling
"China makes crappy clothes anyway, so who cares?"
This is a very outdated view. Let me show you just one shop in Beijing, which I think makes clothes that surpasses Loro Piana, The Row, or whatever luxury ready-to-wear brand you can name. 🧵
Vance's smirk here annoys me bc respectability in dress is often used as a cudgel against the very people he supposedly champions: the marginalized, poor working classes. It's an idiotic, odious concept that's unevenly applied and often used to shame/ exclude people.
This wildly misleading tweet, and the mostly hateful replies, is like entering an alternate version of reality.
If anybody is interested in the truth behind this claim, and what that Swedish poll actually asked, I'll go through it.
Probably banging my head against a wall. 😂