The name San Marzano has no legal protection in the United States. In Italy the tomato has a DOP, a protected designation, which means it has to be grown in a specific area near Naples, canned whole peeled or in fillets, and certified by a consortium that puts a numbered seal on the can. None of that applies here. A can labeled San Marzano in an American grocery store can be a different variety, grown anywhere, packed anywhere, and it's completely legal. In 2011 the president of that Italian consortium told a reporter he thought maybe 1% of the San Marzano sold in the US was the real thing.
The real ones are easy to spot once you know. The can says Pomodoro San Marzano dell'Agro Sarnese-Nocerino, carries the DOP seal, and has a consortium number on it. Never diced, never crushed, never pureed, because the certification doesn't cover those forms. Cento is the one people argue about. They use a third party certifier called Agri-Cert rather than the consortium, and a class action filed in May says calling that Certified San Marzano is misleading. Cento says it left the consortium voluntarily over labeling and that Agri-Cert is EU approved.
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